Ottolenghi Cooks Sweet
My daughter Charlotte and I were in England last summer, exploring London and the northern countryside, and discovering the revival of good cooking now in full swing there. Even the traditional foods like bangers and mash, fish and chips, and Cornish pasties were tasty and well-prepared.
A highlight was taking the Underground from London out to Ottolenghi Islington. On arriving at this wonderful eatery, with its long communal tables bathed in natural light, we found glorious savories and alluring baked goods set out in sumptuous array among fresh flowers and greenery. After we selected two or three items (a hard choice with all the tempting options), the food was plated and delivered to our table. We chose from quiches, savory pastries and cakes, salads, and vegetables, all tossed, baked, roasted, or served with rich mixes of curries, cardamom, chilies, lemongrass, za’atar, sumac, dukkah, ruby-red pomegranate arils, full-bodied grains, fresh yogurt, cheeses, and a myriad of other delicacies. The abundant, colorful spread was as beautiful as it was delicious.
But the sweets—studded, sprinkled, and flavored with rose petals, pistachios, saffron, dark chocolates, cinnamon, aniseed, coffee, cardamom, and orange blossoms—were a whole different order of wonderful.… Read More