Archive | Entrees

Local Halibut in Albariño Crazy Water

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 whole shallots, sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
2 Calabrian chiles (or other hot Italian chile), sliced thin
½ bulb of fennel, sliced thin
3 tablespoons high quality tomato paste
1 cup Albariño (an aromatic white wine from
northwestern Spain)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ cup seawater or salted tap water
1 pound local halibut, cut into 1-inch cubes
¼ bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon oregano, chopped

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet and add olive oil. When oil is hot, add the shallots, fennel, chiles, and garlic. Sauté 4 minutes until soft and lightly caramelized. Add the tomato paste, cumin, and coriander, sauté 1 minute more, and then add the Albariño wine and cook approximately 2 minutes until the alcohol is cooked out. Add the seawater and simmer on low heat for 6 minutes, until all the flavors start to come together. Add the halibut and cook for 2 minutes until cooked through. Add the parsley and oregano. Serve in shallow serving bowl and finish with a drizzle of high quality olive oil. Serves 2–4.

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BRINED PORK CHOPS WITH KUMQUAT-CHERRY CHUTNEY

FROM CAFÉ ESIN

4 to 6 10-ounce pork chops with bone in, brined

BRINE

2 quarts water
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup brown sugar
8 juniper berries
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
2 garlic cloves
1 celery stalk diced
1/2 onion diced
1 carrot diced
1 bay leaf
5 peppercorns

Bring all ingredients to boil, chill and then submerge pork chops for 14 hours. Remove, pat dry and grill or roast pork chops. Top with chutney.

KUMQUAT-CHERRY CHUTNEY

1/2 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
1/2 cup dried cherries, rough chopped
8 ounces candied fresh kumquats, cut into 1/4 inch-thick rounds, seeded (recipe follows)
1/3 cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons minced peeled ginger
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup orange juice

Combine all ingredients in heavy medium saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring often. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until chutney thickens and kumquats are translucent, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Cool completely. Discard cinnamon stick.

CANDIED KUMQUATS

3 cups sugar
3 cups water
1 pound kumquats

Boil sugar, water, and kumquats for 15 minutes, until tender and refrigerate for 3 days before using.… Read More

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CHICKEN BRAISED WITH POMEGRANATE

Serves 4-6

1 Rosie or other organic chicken, back removed then cut eight ways
1 large white onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
5 whole cloves garlic, split in half, germ removed
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 clove
1 1/4 sticks cinnamon
2 bay leaves
1/2 tablespoon fennel seeds
Kosher salt
Finely ground white pepper
1-inch piece lemon peel
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only
3 large pomegranates, seeds only
2 cups home made chicken broth, hot
1/4 cup Italian parsley, leaves only, finely chopped

Season chicken well with salt and pepper. In a large, high-sided sauté pan, brown the chicken thoroughly in the oil. Remove to a warm platter.

Add the vegetables and cook into a soffrito over moderate heat until golden. Add herbs and spices (except parsley) and cook a little further until very aromatic.

Return chicken to the pan. Add the hot broth and reduce heat to a low simmer.
Add pomegranate seeds, setting aside about 4 tablespoons for garnish. Cover and cook until tender, approximately 25 minutes. Remove chicken onto a hot serving platter

Grind the sauce through a food mill or pulse in a blender. Gently reduce until no longer watery, stir in parsley, and pour over chicken.… Read More

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Poached Goose Egg on a Bed of Pea Greens with Green Garlic Cream

Poached Goose Egg on a Bed of Pea Greens with Green Garlic Cream

Recipe by Jessica Prentice

½ cup cream or half-and-half

2 stems green garlic, minced

1 large goose egg

1 small, slender leek, sliced into rounds

¼ pound pea greens

2 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper

 

Put the cream and green garlic in a very small pot. Heat over low heat until just simmering. Lid the pot, turn off heat, and let the cream infuse while you continue the recipe.

In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat and add the leek. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the leek collapses. Add the pea greens and sauté, stirring, for a minute, just until they collapse into the leek. Add a pinch of salt and stir.

Crack the goose egg into the skillet over the greens. Pour the green garlic and cream mixture over the egg, and then season the egg generously with salt and pepper. Turn heat to low and put a lid over the skillet. Allow to steam, covered, until the white is completely set, and the yolk just starts to thicken.

Set the skillet on the table and serve, with slices of toast and perhaps some steamed or roasted new potatoes.… Read More

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Crisp Fried Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Feta and Mint

Crisp Fried Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Feta and Mint

Recipe by Marie Simmons, Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff

 

A bagful of squash blossoms from the farmers market sent me back a few decades to my childhood. My mother harvested the blossoms from the tangled zucchini patch in our garden, dipped them in egg and flour, and fried them in olive oil. We sat on the back porch and ate them like some kids eat peanuts. Here is Mom’s basic recipe. The feta and mint are my additions. Mom would have used a square of mozzarella or Pecorino Romano.

12 or more squash blossoms, preferably with stems attached (stems make good handles)

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more, if needed

1 to 2 large eggs

Feta cheese, cut into ⅓-inch pieces (one for each blossom)

Mint leaves, torn into small pieces (one for each blossom)

Olive or other vegetable oil

 

Examine the blossoms closely to make sure there aren’t any bugs hiding inside. Do not rinse the delicate blossoms.

Place the flour on a large shallow plate. Whisk the egg or eggs and 2 tablespoons water in a shallow soup bowl until blended. Make a small slit in the side of each blossom near the stem end and insert a piece of cheese and mint leaf.… Read More

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Grilled Potimarron with Salsa Verde

This Italian style salsa verde can be made with any combination of herbs. “Don’t be afraid to experiment.” —AP

1 fully mature potimarron, cut into wedges
1 medium shallot, minced
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves only (about 2
cups), finely chopped
½ bunch mint, leaves only (about ½ cup), finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon capers, drained and minced
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

To make the salsa verde, combine the minced shallot and vinegar in a small bowl and let stand for 10 minutes. In a food processor, combine the parsley, mint, garlic, anchovies, and capers and process until combined. Add the shallot-and-vinegar mixture. With the machine on, slowly pour in the olive oil until incorporated. Season with salt.

Grill the squash until soft and serve topped with the salsa verde. Serves 4.

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Potimarron with Almonds, Garlic, and Aleppo Pepper

A good way to use semi-mature potimarron. Even at full maturity, potimarron has a tender skin that does not need to be pared away.

1 potimarron, cut into wedges
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups slivered almonds
1 tablespoon garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oil
Pinch salt
Pinch Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
1 lemon, sliced
Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preheat oven to 350°. Toss potimarron with olive oil, place on a baking sheet, and roast until the wedges have softened and started to brown (about 40 minutes). Toss almonds and garlic in
the canola or grapeseed oil, place over parchment on a baking sheet, and roast until lightly toasted.

Remove from oven and toss in a bowl with the salt and Aleppo pepper. When the squash is fully roasted, place on a serving dish and top with the toasted almond mix, a pinch of parsley, and a slice of lemon. Grate some Parmigiano over the top. Serves 4.

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Potimarron Jeune in Tomato Sauce

“The possibilities on this riff are endless. Try it with any summer squash variety.” —AP

Several potimarron jeune (or summer squash), cut into 1-inch cubes
1 large Italian eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
12 ounces of an oily type fish, such as yellowtail,
tuna, sardines, or mackerel
2 cups tomato sauce (arrabiata, puttanesca, or with herbes de Provence)
3 ounces oil-cured olives or a really garlicky aioli

Preheat oven to 350°. Toss the potimarron and eggplant cubes in olive oil, place on a baking sheet, and roast until the cubes have softened and started to brown (about 40 minutes). When they
are nearly done, start grilling the fish. Place the tomato sauce in a sauté pan and add the roasted squash and eggplant cubes, stewing them all “à la minute.” Divide the mixture onto 4 serving plates and top each with a piece of grilled fish. Garnish with the olives or aioli. Serves 4.

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Black Futsu in Green Curry Sauce

At Sea Salt, they love black futsu for the “fudge-like” texture of its golden flesh, which has a rich taste resembling hazelnuts, and for the edible skin that gets somewhat crisp when roasted.

1 large black futsu squash, cut into 1-inch-thick half moons
6 tablespoons butter
Salt
½ medium-sized onion, chopped
1 two-inch piece fresh ginger, minced
2 stalks lemongrass (Cut away and discard the green portions and then bruise the remaining portion with the back of a knife before slicing thinly.)
3 green apples, peeled and diced
Zest of 2 limes
2 tablespoons green curry paste
2 cans coconut milk
½ cup cream (optional)
1 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped
(Reserve a few whole sprigs for garnish.)

Preheat oven to 350°. Clarify 2 tablespoons butter and use it to coat the squash segments. Lay them on a baking sheet, salt lightly, and roast until the squash is soft and its skin is crisp. Meanwhile, melt the rest of the butter in a saucepan and sauté onion, ginger, lemongrass, and apple until soft. Allow to cool and then pureé in a blender or food processor along with the lime zest, curry paste, coconut milk, cream, and cilantro. Just before serving, gently heat the curry sauce while arranging the roasted squash slices onto plates.… Read More

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Mostaccioli con Mandorle

Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and Anisette From My Calabria: Rustic Cooking from Italy’s Undiscovered South (Norton, 2010), by Rosetta Costantino with Janet Fletcher, © 2010 by Rosetta Costantino and Janet Fletcher.

Used with permission.

In a discussion about her book, Rosetta mentioned that there were quite a few recipes, especially in the dolci (desserts) chapter, that her editor wanted omitted because they were deemed too esoteric. Indeed, most of the recipes that made the cut will be highly accessible to most people who enjoy spending quality time in the kitchen. But Rosetta seems to have found various ways to give readers a nibble here and there of the esoterica. In the headnote to this recipe, she explains that mostaccioli,

“Calabria’s most beloved holiday cookies” might also be “among the region’s oldest sweets, judging from their primitive nature.” She goes on to describe the most traditional version as being made with nothing but flour and honey that’s mixed into a stiff dough, rolled flat, and cut into whimsical shapes before being baked. “Calabrian children learn to suck slowly on these jaw-breaking cookies until they soften.”

As she describes the traditional decorating techniques, one starts to understand the degree to which Calabrians go in their hand crafting of food:

“Mostaccioli are never frosted but are charmingly decorated with hatch marks and tiny squares of shiny colored tinfoil that you remove before eating.Read More

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