Summer 2013

A GLOSSARY

Illustrations by Mary Brown Binchotan: traditional Japanese charcoal. It’s chemical-free, nearly smoke-free, and burns much hotter and longer than American charcoal, making for an excellent sear. Dashi: broth made from konbu (an edible kelp) and katsuobushi. In her book, Nancy Singleton Hachisu calls dashi “probably the most important building block in Japanese cooking.” Hiyayakko: a dish…

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WHAT'S IN SEASON

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. MAY/JUNE Cherries and berries show off their stuff in June. Orchards on the eastern edge of the East Bay and…

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EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL

Illustration by Margo Rivera-Weiss During a recent airing of A Prairie Home Companion, Garrison Keillor quipped: “Pleasure is generic and suffering is individual.” Far be it from me to contradict the “modern-day Mark Twain,” as Keillor is often called, but as images from the films of Les Blank float through my mind, I can’t help…

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SIDE DISH Juhu Beach Club

MISTRY REVEALED By Sarah Henry Photos by Paige Hermreck There’s a new Top Chef in the Temescal, one with a mighty spicy pedigree and a fan base from her days popping up in San Francisco with Mumbai-inspired mobile food—not to mention a following from a certain popular cooking show contest (Season 6, for those who…

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SIDE DISH Living Apothecary

By Sarah Henry Photo by Nicki Rosario Tonic and tasty don’t always belong in the same sentence. But try rolling these around in your mouth:  Cold Pressed Juice Elixir No. 1, a blend of kale, romaine, watermelon, cucumber, apple, and mint.  Vegan Milk No. 2, an almond-cashew combo infused with cacao and enhanced by rose…

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SEVEN STARS OF SUMMER

BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com.…

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A PRODUCE PICKER’S COMPANION

BY HELEN KRAYENHOFF ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS Is it ripe? Is it ready? Will this one taste better than that one? What’s the best way to enjoy it? How do I grow it? Whether you’re in your garden or at the market, there are always these questions . . . Last fall we shared insight on…

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PEKO-PEKO JAPANESE CATERING

THE ROBUST FOOD OF THE IZAKAYA Sylvan Brackett’s Peko-Peko Japanese Catering Photos by Aya Brackett In a tidy, raftered workshop behind his Oakland home, Sylvan Mishima Brackett works a special magic of the Japanese culinary sort. Brackett is the owner of Peko-Peko, a catering company specializing in Japanese izakaya food. Izakayas are like taverns serving…

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A NEW LEAF

Planting Justice creates edible gardens and second chances By Rachel Trachten Unlike the vast majority of men released from San Quentin, Kevin Williams left prison with the promise of a steady job. Williams is one of 10 men who have made the transition from San Quentin to employment through Planting Justice, an Oakland nonprofit that…

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SIDE DISH fuseBOX

MODERN KOREAN FOOD LIGHTS UP WEST OAKLAND By Sarah Henry Photos by Nicki Rosario Sometimes it pays to listen to the females in the house. For years, Korean-born chef Sunhui Chang listened to his wife, theater director Ellen Sebastian Chang, and daughter, SunIm, encouraging him to open a restaurant serving the kind of Korean comfort…

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