A Sri Lankan Street-Side Cooking Adventure from Hoppers

Dip your toes into Hoppers: The Cookbook with one of chef Karan Gokani’s lamb or chicken curry recipes. It you want to dive into a street-side Sri Lankan experience and assemble your own kothu, you might pair that curry with chopped roti (skillet bread) plus whatever vegetables, eggs, cheese, etc. you like.

Hoppers: The Cookbook
By Karan Gokani
Quadrille Publishing (ISBN ‎978-1787138704), $42.00 (Hardcover)

Head to Rockridge Market Hall on Saturday, February 25, 2023, where you can purchase this book and get it signed by the author. Or purchase the book online here.

The following recipes are excerpted with permission from Hoppers by Karan Gokani published by ‎Quadrille Publishing, December 2022, RRP $42.00 Hardcover.

THE ROTI

The key to a good kothu is getting the roti right. This is arguably the trickiest part of the recipe and I’ve given instructions here on how to do it by hand, but you could equally make the dough in a stand mixer with a dough hook if you have one. Sri Lankans use torn godamba roti, a thin stretched unleavened bread, to make this dish; south Indians in Tamil Nadu and Kerala use a flakier parotta, similar to the Coiled Roti on page 93 in the book. If you want to try this chunkier version in Sri Lanka, find a stall that serves “Dolphin Kothu,” which has nothing to do with dolphins, but no one seems to know where the name came from.

As a student I remember Sri Lankan friends using shredded store-bought tortillas when cooking on a budget—“minimal effort for maximum results,” they used to say. Frozen parottas or Malaysian roti canai-style breads work well, too, if you can’t be bothered to make the roti yourself. Always ensure that the rotis you use are cooked and cooled to prevent them going too soggy or breaking down completely. Remember, the idea is to rehydrate stale rotis using leftover curry sauce so the drier the roti, the better.

Makes 3 portions

INGREDIENTS:

• 300g (10½ ounces) all-purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• 100ml (3½ fluid ounces) milk
• 125ml (4 fluid ounces) water
• Oil, to brush

PREPARATION:

1. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Place the milk and water in a small saucepan and heat until the temperature reaches 32–37°C (90–99°F). Add the warm liquid to the dry ingredients, reserving 2–3 tbsp in the pan, and bring the mixture together quickly with a fork. Once you have a shaggy, rough dough, continue to bring it together with your hands. Knead the dough together while adding the remaining liquid from the pan, a splash at a time. Stop adding liquid when the dough is the consistency of smooth but firm Play-Doh. It should be soft and moist, but not sticky. Bring the dough together in a ball, return to the bowl and drizzle with a little oil. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Divide the dough into 8 balls weighing about 70g (2½ ounces) each. Oil each ball generously, transfer to a large plate and cover again with the damp cloth. Rest on the kitchen counter for 3 hours or in the fridge overnight.
3. Roll each ball of rested dough into 2cm (¾ inch)-thick discs and rest for 2–3 minutes. Using your hands, carefully stretch one of the discs into a rectangle as thin as you can without tearing them. Or use a rolling pin to roll into a very thin 20–22cm (8–8 ½ in) circle, using oil as required to prevent it from sticking. Repeat with the remaining discs of dough. You don’t need to be precise about the shape of the rotis, as these will be chopped up eventually.
4. Heat a large non-stick pan (skillet) over a medium-high heat. Place the roti on the dry pan and cook for 30–45 seconds or until you see small brown spots appear on it. Then flip over and fry for a further 30 seconds. Repeat for 15–20 seconds on each side until the roti is cooked through but not crisp.
5. Allow to cool to room temperature and cut into 1cm (½ inch) strips. You can use these straight away or store them in an airtight bag in the freezer for months.

 

LAMB CURRY

Makes 2 portions

FOR THE MARINADE

• 500 grams (1pound 2 ounces) lamb neck or shoulder fillets, diced into 4cm (1½-inch) pieces
• 1 tsp minced ginger
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon curry powder
• ¼ teaspoon salt

FOR THE CURRY

• 3 tablespoons coconut oil
• 9cm (3½-inch) cinnamon stick
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 4 cloves
• 150g (5½ ounces) onion (approximately 1 medium onion), sliced
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1½ tablespoons Roasted Curry Powder (This is on page 38 in the book.)
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons chili powder
• 1 lemongrass stick
• 5cm (2 inches) piece pandan leaf
• 10–12 curry leaves
• 1 large ripe tomato, sliced (or 3 tbsp canned chopped tomatoes)
• 250ml (9 fluid ounces) stock or water
• 100ml (3½ fluid ounces) coconut milk
• 2 green chilies, halved widthways (optional)
• ½ teaspoon salt

PREPARATION:

1. Place all the ingredients for the marinade in a bowl and mix together well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the coconut oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the marinated lamb to it and fry until browned on all sides, about 5–7 minutes. To achieve this, use a large pan, cook over a high heat and don’t stir the meat too much. You want it to brown as opposed to release its juices and stew in them.
3. Once browned, remove the lamb to a plate using a slotted spoon. Add the remaining oil to the pan and continue to heat it over a medium-high heat. Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves and fry for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the onion and a pinch of salt and sauté until soft and translucent, about 6–8 minutes. Add the minced ginger and garlic and continue frying until the raw smell is no longer present, about 2–3 minutes. Add the ground spices, lemongrass, pandan leaf, and curry leaves and fry for a further minute, adding a splash of water or stock if the spices stick. Add the tomatoes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes until they soften and become thick and pulpy.
4. Add the lamb back in and stir well to ensure it is coated in the spiced tomato paste. Continue cooking for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the stock and stir everything together. Cover and simmer for 15–20 minutes until the meat is tender. Add the coconut milk and reduce to a simmer; cook for another 4–5 minutes. Add the halved green chilies, if using, and cook for 1 final minute. Season with salt and allow to cool until ready to make your kothu.

 

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER

The list of vegetables below is what you will find in a typical street-side kothu in Sri Lanka. The possibilities at home, on the other hand, are endless. As already mentioned, this is the ultimate way to uplift leftovers and those neglected vegetables at the back of the fridge, so get as creative as you like. Cheese can be added at the very end for that little extra indulgence, while string hoppers, rice noodles or strips of egg white omelet can be substitutes for roti if you’re after a gluten-free or carb-free version.

As with all stir-fried dishes, it is vital that you have all the ingredients prepared and on hand before you start cooking as time is of the essence! You want to ensure the roti and veg still have a bite, yet are fully cooked through, so ensure you keep your pan nice and hot. I’d recommend having a little extra sauce to add if you need it. The key is to add just enough to rehydrate the roti and bind all the ingredients together, but not make the dish a soggy mush.

Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 80g (2 ¾ ounces) red onion (1 small onion), thinly sliced
• 100g (3 ½ ounces) carrot, peeled and grated
• 250g (9 ounces) white or hispi cabbage, finely grated
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten and seasoned with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 300g (10½ ounces) curry (chicken, paneer, or meat)
• 150g (5½ ounces) shredded roti
• 2 spring onions (scallions), roughly sliced
• ½ teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Small handful of coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped

PREPARATION:

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large non-stick pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes. Increase the heat to its highest setting and add the carrot and cabbage and stir-fry until they wilt and the moisture in the pan dries out, about 4–5 minutes.
2. Move the veg over to one side of the pan and add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the empty side of the pan. Heat it for 30 seconds then add the beaten eggs. Allow them to set and then gently stir until fully set but not dry. Mix the vegetables into the eggs and stir-fry for another 30 seconds.
3. Add the protein or vegetables and half of the sauce from your chosen curry. Stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the roti and toss for 2 minutes. Add half the spring onions (scallions) and the remaining curry sauce and continue stir-frying for another couple of minutes until everything has come together and resembles stir-fried noodles. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with the remaining spring onions and the coriander (cilantro) leaves.
4. Serve immediately alongside some chilled Greek yoghurt or raita.

 

CHICKEN CURRY

One of my favorite things about kothu is its versatility. You can use any south Indian or Sri Lankan curry as a base, but I generally prefer curries that aren’t too rich or coconutty. Thinner, lighter curries work better. If making the curry specifically for the kothu, I suggest spicing it up a few notches, as the flavors and heat will invariably be diluted by the vegetables and strips of roti. Below are some of my favorite curries for kothu. Each of them is delicious by itself, so even if you decide not to go the whole hog with the kothu, cook the curry and enjoy it with some rice, bread or roti, and a fresh sambol on the side. You can turn any leftovers (if there are any left!) into a kothu the next day.

On the other hand, if you can’t be bothered making the curry and are after a shortcut, you can use store-bought or takeaway curry for this, as long as it’s south Indian or Sri Lankan in style. Don’t try making this with a north Indian curry, such as a korma or chicken tikka masala, as they have a completely different flavor profile.

Makes 2 portions

INGREDIENTS:

500g (1pound, 2 ounces) boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2.5cm (1inch) pieces

FOR THE MARINADE

• ½ teaspoon ginger paste
• 1 teaspoon garlic paste
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon curry powder
• ½ teaspoon salt

FOR THE CURRY

• 3 tablespoons coconut oil
• 5cm (2 inch) cinnamon stick
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 4 cloves
• 150g (5½ ounces) onion (approximately 1 medium onion), sliced
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1½ tablespoons Roasted Curry Powder (page 38 in the book)
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons chili powder
• 1 lemongrass stick
• 5cm (2 inch) piece pandan leaf
• 10–12 curry leaves
• 1 large ripe tomato, sliced (or 3 tablespoons canned chopped tomatoes)
• 250ml (9 fluid ounces) chicken stock or water
• 100ml (3½ fluid ounces) coconut milk
• 2 green chilies, halved lengthways (optional)
• ½ teaspoon salt

PREPARATION:

1. Place the chicken and all the ingredients for the marinade in a bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
2. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves and fry for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the onion and a pinch of salt and sauté until soft and translucent, about 6–8 minutes. Add the minced ginger and garlic and continue frying until the raw smell is no longer present, about 2–3 minutes. Add the ground spices, lemongrass, pandan leaf and curry leaves and fry for a further minute, adding a splash of water or stock if the spices stick. Add the tomatoes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring often for 5 minutes, until they soften and become thick and pulpy.
3. Add the marinated chicken and stir well to ensure it is coated in the spiced tomato paste, about 3–4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the chicken stock and stir everything together. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce reduces and thickens slightly. Add the coconut milk and reduce to a simmer for another 5–7 minutes. Add the halved green chilies, if using, and cook for a final minute. Season with salt and allow to cool until you’re ready to make your kothu.