The Wide World of Dumplings
The Moveable Feast
Story & Photos by Meredith Pakier
Dumplings might be the World’s favorite comfort food. Those doughy parcels appear across many different cultures, and there are plenty of delicious variations around the East Bay.
From left: Dumplings on the plate at Papaluna, Spices 3, and New Dumpling
Dumplings from Zomsa
A cottage food operation, Papaluna helps fill the Polish slot in the East Bay’s arc of world cuisines. Their handmade pierogi feature both traditional and creative fillings. I love their potato and onion offering for how it transfigures the starchy spud into a light and fluffy cloud. Follow @papalunaoakland on Instagram or get on their email list for first dibs on pre-ordering.
The Sichuan restaurant Spices 3 serves juicy pork wontons glistening with red chile oil, which gives the thinly wrapped morsels plenty of zip without a wallop of heat. To get your lips buzzing, add the Sichuan pepper-coated fried chicken wings to your order. 370-372 12th St, Oakland
Peer into the open-air kitchen at New Dumpling to watch northern Chinese jiaozi get stuffed and boiled. These bouncy, thick-skinned dumplings are available with a wide variety of classic and unique fillings. Don’t skip the tomato and egg dumpling, which is inspired by the homey stir-fried dish.
10064 San Pablo Ave, El Cerrito
A friend tipped me off to Zomsa for their stick-to-your-ribs Himalayan momos. The chicken jhol momo is rich and succulent with a silky cashew-peanut sauce that pools in each pleat. 10558 San Pablo Ave, El Cerrito
From left: Dumplings at Babushka, Dumpling House Mongolian Cuisine, and Bing’s Dumplings
The café at Babushka serves up Russian hallmarks like borscht and honey cake, but I go for the pelmeni. The dumplings come moist with a pungent garlicky broth that’s brightened with plenty of fresh dill. Be sure to browse the attached market for preserves, breads, and cheese from across Eastern Europe. 1475 Newell Ave, Walnut Creek
I had my first ever taste of khuushuur, a fried Mongolian street snack, at Dumpling House Mongolian Cuisine. Similar to an empanada, the crispy handheld pocket stuffed with lightly seasoned minced beef is simple and satisfying. 12221 San Pablo Ave #6, Richmond
Bing’s Dumplings offers all kinds of crimped wonders. Among them are the xiao long bao (soup dumplings), which hail from Shanghai. Plump with a rich, savory broth and supple pork meatballs, these hearty nuggets are a winter necessity. Before leaving, stop at Bing’s freezer for some premade dumplings to enjoy at home on cold winter nights. 34360 Fremont Blvd, Fremont ♦
When Meredith Pakier is not writing as part of the Market Hall Foods marketing and communications team, she’s hiking with her dog, Nico, and dreaming about starting a garden.
