Island to Island
The Moveable Feast
Story and photos by Meredith Pakier
From left: Offerings from T’chaka, a Taste of Haiti, Minto’s Jamaican Restaurant, and alaMar Dominican Kitchen
Bay Area Caribbean dining options may seem few and far between when compared to offerings in cities like New York or Miami. But what’s lacking in numbers is made up for in spirit with a strong community of chefs passionate about showcasing the diverse cuisines across the islands.
Minto’s memorable rum cake
At T’chaka—Oakland’s first and only Haitian restaurant—zippy pikliz, a pickled cabbage, carrot, and Scotch bonnet relish, cut through the creamy interior of the must-have akra (taro root fritters). Eighties and nineties jams provided the soundtrack as we picked clean an entire red snapper. 901 Washington St, Oakland
It was a veritable feast at Minto’s Jamaican Restaurant, the full-service outpost of North Oakland’s Minto’s Market. The succulent stewed oxtail, jerk chicken, rice and peas, and bammy (fried cassava) were all memorable, but the crisp-edged salt fish fritters and a dense rum cake kicking with boozy, fruity flavor were standouts. 412 15th St, Oakland (Note: As of press date, Minto’s was closed for renovation. Call 510.817.4694 before going.)
East Bay stalwart AlaMar Kitchen showcases the varied pleasures of Dominican cuisine, drawing inspiration from family recipes, New York restaurant classics, and street food favorites. Starters of shrimp in a garlicky sazón-laced sauce and savory mofongo (plantain) draped with oxtail gravy led to the main event: a tender-as-velvet pernil (pork shoulder) with that coveted caramelized crust. 100 Grand Ave #111, Oakland
From left: Offerings from La Perla Puerto Rican Restaurant, Cocobreeze Caribbean Restaurant and Bakery, and African Caribbean Food Market
When La Perla recently relocated from the Dimond District to Castro Valley Marketplace, the Puerto Rican restaurant brought along their full embrace of warm hospitality. Their mofongo nicely soaked up the smothered chicken encebollado, which was pure comfort on a chilly day. You’ll probably want the extra helpings of their original Fuego Mango, a sweet and spicy sauce that belongs on pretty much everything. 3295 Castro Valley Blvd, Castro Valley
Oakland’s only Trinidadian restaurant, CocoBreeze, boasts notable vegan and vegetarian options and offers everything from roti and pelau rice to baobab smoothies. Their doubles—a popular street food—is a must: The dish is a fluffy pair of flatbreads filled with chana (chickpeas) coated in a fragrant curry sauce and topped with your choice of sweet or spicy relishes and chutneys. 2370 High St, Oakland
If you want to cook Caribbean at home, pay a visit to African Caribbean Food Market, aka Man Must Wak. Squeezed into the petite market is a colorful array of rare spices, seasonings, sauces, and peppers, plus cuts of meat, beauty products, and more from West Africa and the Caribbean. While you’re there, nab some frozen Jamaican beef pies to heat up at home. 547 8th St, Oakland with a second location at 401 E. 18th St. ♦
When Meredith Pakier is not writing as part of the Market Hall Foods marketing and communications team, she’s hiking with her dog, Nico, and dreaming about starting a garden.
