Full to the Brim

Kristina Sepetys reviews the farm’s new cookbook, Full Belly Farm & Kitchen

 

If you live in the Bay Area and shop at farmers’ markets or green grocers or eat at restaurants that source locally, chances are you’ve enjoyed produce from Full Belly Farm, maybe some of their asparagus, spring garlic, or glossy red Jimmy Nardello peppers. For four decades, the 400-acre Capay Valley farm, located northwest of Sacramento, has been feeding the region, and, more quietly, shaping how many of us understand what sustainable agriculture is supposed to look like.

Amon Muller grew up inside that experiment. His parents, Paul Muller and Dru Rivers, with their partners Andrew Brait and Judith Redmond, transformed a run-down dairy into the communal institution it is today. But as a kid, Amon dreamed of escape: fewer chores, pavement, a life far from dawn harvests. He left for college and the city, only to find himself missing dirt, seasons, and the way food draws people together. After stints as a river guide and in kitchens (Chez Panisse, Quince, and Coi), he realized his truest culinary education had always been the farm itself.

After Amon and his wife Jenna returned to the farm in 2011, they gradually realized that the farm needed a commercial kitchen and events space as they started hosting community dinners. Their new cookbook, Full Belly: Recipes and Stories from a Family Farm, distills that hosting experience into 100 recipes built around the farm’s seasonal bounty.

Among the many easy-to-cook dishes is their roasted asparagus with poached eggs, a simple combination that gains complexity from za’atar butter made tangy with sumac and nutty with a sesame herb blend. Strawberries in pavlova get brightened with mandarin and lemon verbena. A fig-leaf ice cream captures something that tastes almost impossible: green coconut and warm vanilla notes from just the big, fan-like leaves. There are also seasonal pizzas and a mint-chip ice cream that’s a favorite on the farm. You’ll find practical guidance on choosing the best asparagus, understanding potato varieties, how to garden with regenerative farming practices, and other useful topics.

Molly DeCoudreaux’s photos help bring the farm’s rhythms and abundance to life in this cookbook filled to the brim with easy, flavor-enhancing recipes that make you want to seek out some of that Full Belly bounty. ♦

 

Vibrant Little Gem Salad with Calendula, Chèvre, Membrillo, and Lemon Vinaigrette

A few years ago, the Bay Area went crazy for Little Gem lettuce. Sales skyrocketed, and we now make sure to plant plenty for restaurants and markets in the spring. For this salad, we use both red and green varieties. Paired with the floral notes of calendula, creamy chèvre, and the tangy sweetness of membrillo, this salad makes for an eye-catching dish. —Amon

Serves 2–4

• 2 heads Little Gem lettuce, red or green or a combo
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
• ½ teaspoon sea salt
• Freshly cracked black pepper
• 3½ ounces (100 g) membrillo (quince paste), cut into small cubes (about ½ cup)
• 3 ounces (85 g) soft goat cheese, such as chèvre, crumbled
• ¼ cup (3 g) calendula petals (ensure they are food-grade and pesticide-free)

To wash the lettuce: Chop the root end off of the head of lettuce, then fill a large bowl with cold water and submerge the leaves. Gently separate all the leaves, discarding any of the outer ones that are torn or bruised. Swish the rest in the water to remove any remaining soil. Lift the lettuce from the bowl and place it in a colander, discarding the water. Repeat the process if necessary. Once clean, use a salad spinner to remove excess water or pat the leaves dry with a clean kitchen towel. This step ensures the lettuce is crisp and free of water, which helps the dressing adhere better. Add the cleaned leaves to a large salad bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, and sea salt. Season with freshly cracked black pepper to taste. Drizzle the dressing over the lettuce and toss gently to coat the leaves evenly. Scatter the membrillo cubes, crumbled chèvre, and calendula over the dressed lettuce. Serve immediately.

Note: If your membrillo cubes are sticking together, adding a small amount of olive oil will make them easier to handle.

Images and recipe excerpted with permission from Full Belly Farm & Kitchen: Recipes and Stories from a Family Farm by Amon and Jenna Muller, published by Hardie Grant Publishing, March 2026, RRP $40.00 Hardcover. Purchase here

Kristina Sepetys reviews cookbooks throughout the year for Edible East Bay’s e-newsletter. Sign up for the newsletter at eepurl.com/z-fkn.