In Season: Pears and Grapes
By Barbara Kobsar | Illustrations by Charmaine Koehler-Lodge
Pears are a diverse bunch, and it’s worth becoming familiar with all the different varieties as you choose which to use for your scrumptious cheese board, salad, pizza, or dessert. I’ll spot many of them over the next few months at the farmers’ markets and try them all at some point.
Bartlett pears, with their bell shapes and soft to semi-soft flesh when ripe, are perhaps the quintessence of the European-type pear. Bartletts harvested from the warm lowland of the Sacramento River Delta are the first to arrive at our markets, followed by Bartletts grown at higher elevations like in California’s Lake and Mendocino counties. These mountain Bartletts typically have good storage qualities after ripening. When I need a splash of color on the table or in a dish, I’ll look for the beautiful Red Bartletts.
As the season progresses, I’ll find new-crop yellowish-green-skinned Anjou and perhaps a few red Anjou if I’m lucky. These are egg-shaped in appearance with a semi-soft buttery texture that may be slightly gritty.
Other varieties I’ll anticipate include the small sweet Seckel (perfect for snacking), long-necked Bosc (with perfectly edible russet-colored skin), and the red-blushed Comice. The French butter pear is a favorite for its sweet, aromatic flavor and smooth buttery texture, but it’s also very fragile, so handle with care.
European-type pears are firm when picked and shipped. This is one fruit that must be allowed to ripen off the tree, or it becomes soft and mushy. When it yields to gentle pressure at the stem end, it’s ready to enjoy immediately.
Crisp, juicy Asian pears are a fall treat that, unlike European-type pears, are picked ripe and ready to eat. They are sometimes referred to as pear apples because of their roundish shape and apple-like texture, but they are a true pear and not a hybrid. Most common in the markets are the Hosui, Shinseiki, and 20th Century.
If storage is necessary, place ripe pears in the refrigerator in a closed container. European types keep for three or four days, and Asian pears keep for up to two months.
Most grapes grown in California are varieties used for making wine, juice, jelly, and raisins. The table grape varieties you find at the market are specifically cultivated for fresh eating, and they account for less than 20 percent of California’s total grape harvest.
Color is the best indicator of mature, sweet table grapes. Green grapes (like Thompson Seedless) are sweetest when they reach yellow-green; red varieties (like Red Globe seeded) are best when picked predominantly red. Blue-black grapes (like Fantasy Seedless) are best when they have a deep, rich color. The dusty bloom on fresh grapes is produced by cells in or near the surface that form a natural waterproofing that prevents the skin from cracking. The bloom indicates freshly picked fruit, so these are the ones to buy! ´
Veteran journalist and cookbook author Barbara Kobsar focuses on traditional home-cooked meals using local produce. Find her at the Walnut Creek and San Ramon farmers’ markets selling her Cottage Kitchen jams and jellies.
Artist Charmaine Koehler-Lodge grows most of her family’s food in their large home garden.
Pear and Grape Crisp
Serves 6
- 3 Bosc or Anjou pears, cored and large diced
- 2 cups of seedless grapes, cut into halves
- Juice and zest of 1 lemon
- 3 tablespoons instant tapioca or flour
- 1 tablespoon bourbon or whiskey (optional)
- 1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
- ½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons white sugar
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Place cut pears and grapes in a bowl with lemon zest and juice. Add tapioca and bourbon. Toss to combine. Place mixture into a greased 9-inch baking dish (one with a 6-cup capacity).
Combine oats, nuts, brown sugar, white sugar, and cinnamon in a bowl. Add butter and combine with your fingers until mixture comes together. Spread oat mixture over fruit. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes until juices begin to bubble up and top is crisp and golden brown. May be served warm or at room temperature with a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream.
