Vines & Vittles in Livermore

The Moveable Feast

Story & photos by Meredith Pakier

Twenty years ago, the inaugural issue of Edible East Bay gave readers a look at the agricultural legacy on the eastern edge of Alameda County, where ranches, vineyards, and olive groves date back to the Missionary period. Two decades later, population in the Livermore Valley has boomed, adding a vein of urban culture to a region that still prizes its agricultural identity.

 

 

Chefs Aimee and Bryan Wingen brought their sourdough and a hip vibe to downtown Livermore in 2021 when they opened their airy Wingen Bakery & Restaurant. I fueled up with a mortadella sandwich on their focaccia before venturing out to the surrounding wine country. 50 S Livermore Ave

Napa Valley may be California’s premier wine-tasting destination but tasting fees in the Livermore Valley tend to be far more affordable, and you also have a better chance of chatting with the winemaker in the tasting room.

California wine-making history can be tasted in a glass at Wente Family Vineyards. Over 75 percent of today’s California chardonnay traces its lineage to a clone developed there in the early 20^th century. First established in 1883, Wente still welcomes visitors to its stunning Spanish colonial estate to try their signature chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and other varietal wines with finesse that builds on that historical legacy. 5050 Arroyo Rd

While Fenestra Winery has updated a bit since it opened in 1976, it continues to offer its expressive wines within an exquisitely laid-back ambiance among old wooden buildings and huge gnarled oaks. 83 Vallecitos Rd

Less than two years old, JMC Cellars is the creation of winemaker Jessica Carroll, whose pristine, clearly defined wines highlight each grape’s most enticing qualities. The grignolino rosé and syrah were among my favorites, and the view of neighboring vineyards didn’t hurt either. 6800 Greenville Rd

 

 

It’s not uncommon to find winemakers Ken and Alexandra Henkelman in the Omega Road Winery tasting room. The father-daughter team vinifies grapes that are less-often seen in California, like a delicate and floral torrontés, a crisp and fizzy alvarinho, and an earthy, spicy mencía. 2135 S Vasco Rd, Unit C

If you’re feeling peckish but still want to keep the good times rolling, head to The Black Cat, a cozy restaurant and bar serving well-executed, globally inspired small plates that refuse to be pigeonholed into a single cuisine. Think warm pita with tangy whipped feta drizzled with honey, thyme, and cherries; roasted Japanese sweet potato with a punchy cilantro chutney; Afghan-style lamb and cumin mantu. The wine and cocktail menu follows the same meandering path, offering a little something for everybody. 2241 First St

If Livermore seems far away, consider that dinner at Range Life might be well worth the drive. The menu changes daily to align with seasonality, but the food is reliably simple, creative, and unpretentious despite their Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition. My early June dinner showcased plump bucatini delightfully slick with bone marrow and fresh peas, tempura-battered asparagus, and a flat iron steak with buttery roasted cabbage and potatoes. 2160 Railroad Ave ♦

When Meredith Pakier is not writing as part of the Market Hall Foods marketing and communications team, she’s hiking with her dog, Nico, and dreaming about starting a garden.