Good Vibes, Floor to Ceiling

The Moveable Feast

Story and photos by Meredith Pakier

 

Food can certainly be transportive, but just as important to a restaurant’s magic is its ambiance, the design choices that shape how a meal feels. Here are a few spots where the vibe is just as exciting as what’s on the plate.

 

 

The atmosphere at Kinda Izakaya is, above all, fun. Paper lanterns festoon the ceiling, overturned Asahi beer carts serve as stools, and retro alcohol ads and manga panels paper the walls. Beer and sake pair well with the menu’s diverse selection of small plates like yakitori (grilled skewers), okonomiyaki (fried cabbage pancake smothered in sweet and savory sauce), and steamed Manila clams in a brothy blend of sake and butter. Each morsel is as tender as the last. 1941A University Ave, Berkeley

 

 

Imagine all the hallmarks of your coolest friend’s living room—big windows, broad leafy plants, a vintage record collection—and you’ve got the picture of Payakk. Putting a contemporary, Bay Area–inflected spin on regional Thai cuisine, Payakk relies heavily on seasonality and local ingredients. The Pad Thai Chaiya was miles more nuanced than any I’d had before, and the grilled sea bass, wrapped in lettuce leaves, was crisp, refreshing, and as effortlessly cool as the decor. 5761 Thornhill Dr, Oakland

 

 

Drive down a winding road to a town some locals have never even heard of and look for the golden ox hanging above a large wooden door. You’ve arrived at Bull Valley Roadhouse. Housed inside a Victorian-era building, BVR boasts the rustic charm of the early 20^th century. Stag horns line the dimly lit walls while old photographs and maps ground you in the tiny town of Port Costa. The cocktail program is impressive, with dozens of options spanning pre-Prohibition styles as well as contemporary concoctions. The food carries that same rustic spirit, with an elegant modern touch—think smoked pork chops and steak frites. 14 Canyon Lake Dr, Port Costa

 

 

Along with serving up some truly unique cocktails, Viridian is beaming with Asian American pride as bright as the neon lights and paper dragons that stride across the bar. Here you can get creations like tequila with basil eau de vie, tomato water, and shio koji, or gin topped with li hing cream and egg white foam. The nonalcoholic options are just as innovative, while the concisely curated food menu offers shareable crowd-pleasers like fried chicken wings coated in Sichuan pepper. 2216 Broadway, Oakland

 

 

With its sequin-bedazzled ceiling and an eclectic mix of art nouveau touches like Tiffany lamps and an imposing oak bar hutch, The Fat Lady may veer a bit into kitsch, but with an ice-cold martini in hand and chicken marsala or rib-eye steak on the way, it’s hard not to feel a little like a member of the Rat Pack. Just lean into it—this place is built for celebrations and special occasions. 201 Washington St, Oakland ♦

 

When Meredith Pakier is not writing as part of the Market Hall Foods marketing and communications team, she’s hiking with her dog, Nico, and dreaming about starting a garden.