Urban Wine Tour!

Hey, this is Edible East Bay editor Cheryl Koehler telling you about our December 10, 2011 treasure hunt!  I took a whole lot of friends (even some I didn’t know i knew) out to search at a select group of East Bay urban wineries rumored to have some gems at their tasting bars. Here’s a…

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Ramirez Farm Mexican Corn

In our Harvest 2010 issue of Edible East Bay, writer Patricia Hayse Haller revealed the discovery of real Mexican corn growing at Ramirez Farm in Fremont. (Read the story here…) Mexican corn is the required ingredient for fresh corn tamales. Since these are different from the more typical tamales made of dried masa harina, we…

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DON’T BE AFRAID TO EAT THE FAT!

It was just a little piece of assurance coming from a voice at the back of the room on the evening of Monday, February 22, as we pressed fork and knife into the beautifully fatty porchetta prepared by Café Rouge executive chef, Rick DeBeaord.   The voice was that of Café Rouge executive chef and…

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Berkeley Horticultural Nursery Anniversary

Join Edible East Bay in celebrating Berkeley Horticultural Nursery’s 90th Anniversary! And what better way to say “hooray” than with an ice cream tasting! Saturday, September 29, 1–4 pm Berkeley Horticultural Nursery 1310 McGee Ave, Berkeley 510.526.4704 • www.berkeleyhort.com Six fabulous East Bay ice cream, sorbet, and gelato producers will be on hand to make…

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Where the Elite Meet to Eat …

Where the Elite Meet to Eat … What goes best with a Blue Bottle macchiato: Rosemary shortbread? Saffron-and-lemon snickerdoodles? A grilled steak sandwich with arugula and a tangy green smear of chimichurri on an Acme torpedo roll? If you picked the steak sandwich, head to Blue Bottle’s Jack London Square location the third Thursday of…

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Uncommon Exchange

Doug Reil gives Maria Myers the produce donated to Cafeina. Uncommon Exchange Doug Reil serves up a radical idea in food sharing By Rachel Trachten Photos by Nicki Rosario If you’re looking for a tasty meal made from locally sourced produce this season, but are not quite up for Chez Panisse, consider Cafeína Organic Café,…

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A Look on the Sunnyside of Richmond: Sunnyside Organic Seedlings

A Look on the Sunnyside of Richmond: Sunnyside Organic Seedlings Pity the indecisive gardener, snared in the bounty of Sunnyside Organic Seedlings’ farmers’ market booth. Lettuces are easy: six different types come in each variety pack, each pert baby ruffled, frilled, or speckled in deepest magenta or new-leaf green. But then come the herbs, far…

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A Produce Picker’s Companion

A Produce Picker’s Companion Advice from two market farmers for gardeners and shoppers by Helen Krayenhoff Cut Paper Illustrations by Margo Rivera-Weiss There you are in your garden admiring squash and melon vines that have taken over the entire territory. Some impressive fruits have developed, but are they ready to harvest? They are big, for…

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Donut Logic

Donut Logic Laurel Davis, co-owner of Donut Savant in Oakland, hadn’t planned to become a full-time doughnut maker. Sure, she grew up baking with her mother and grandmother, so she knew her way around a mixer. Years of living in Seattle, where doughnuts are taken almost as seriously as coffee, had made her an aficionado…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

Editor’s Mixing Bowl I think that the times that have felt most vital in my life, are those when some circumstance, idea, or spirit of sheer curiosity has propelled me into a new undertaking. Sometimes the result is nothing but a small shift in perspective, but on other occasions, it turns into something as momentous as…

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Keepin’ It Real Local With Deeds, Not Words

In August 2010, East Oakland native and avid gardener Kelly Carlisle (pictured at right) started up a youth urban farm project on a quarter-acre plot at the Tassafaronga Recreation Center in East Oakland. She gave it a name intended to inspire young gardeners: Acta Non Verba. “It means ‘Deeds not Words’ in Latin,” she explains.…

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Seven Stars of the Fall Harvest

Seven Stars of the Fall Harvest BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s fall favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and…

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School Lunch 2.0

School Lunch 2.0 Oakland Headed for a School Food Overhaul By Sarah Henry Jennifer LeBarre, Oakland Unified School District’s nutrition services director, has a dream. Looking ahead 10 years, she imagines visiting the district’s central kitchen where fresh food is prepared from scratch for all district campuses using organic produce from the onsite farm. Each…

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Contents: Fall Harvest 2012

EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL SIDE DISH Acta Non Verba Farm Donut Savant Belcampo Meat-Up Sunnyside Organics Mobile Action Lab SWEET, COLD, AND UNFORGETTABLE PLEASURE An East Bay cone-u-copia of ice cream and other frozen treats UNCOMMON EXCHANGE Doug Reil serves up a radical idea in food sharing A PRODUCE PICKER’S COMPANION Advice from two market farmers…

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SWEET, COLD, AND UNFORGETTABLE PLEASURE

SWEET, COLD, AND UNFORGETTABLE PLEASURE An East Bay cone-u-copia of ice cream and other frozen treats STORY AND PHOTOS KRISTINA M. SEPETYS Ice cream cones, a cup of sorbet or gelato, an icy paleta: simple, delightful indulgences that make people smile. Like many grown-up children, I have fond memories of an old, battered ice cream…

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The Mindful Way Beyond Plastics

Beth Terry’s Vision and Practice By Cheryl Angelina Koehler Photos by Nicki Rosario As Michael Pollan was laying bare for us the bones of the industrial food system in The Omnivore’s Dilemma, he cited the old dictum, “you are what you eat,” observing that if it is true, “then what we are today is mostly…

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On Gleaning

By Cheryl Angelina Koehler glean (glēn), v.t & v.i. [ M.E. glenen; OFr. glener; LL. glennare < Celt.; cf. OIr. dīgleinn, he gleans] 1. to collect (grain left by reapers). 2. to collect the remaining grain (from a field). 3. to collect (facts etc.) gradually or bit by bit. (Webster’s New World Dictionary) The heat…

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Too Many Radishes…

…what to do?     Radishes are a great first crop to grow with kids—they come up quickly, are brightly colored, and can be eaten fresh out of the garden­. (Just make sure you wipe off the earth that clings to the fine roots.) They can be directly seeded into the ground all year long…

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Seven Stars of Summer 2012

Seven Stars of Summer by Jessica Prentice Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven summer favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other…

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Secret Recipes

Recipes can spark the imagination, but more often, we look to them when we want assurance of success in reaching some specified goal, such as, say, making a perfect soufflé. Writing teacher Sondra Hall, on the other hand, uses recipes—or the idea of recipes—as a way to lead kids into the wide world of the…

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Welcome to Wine Country

Welcome to Wine Country It’s right here! By Tom Riley with photos by Stacy Ventura Over the past several years, the New York Times and a host of national glossies have chronicled the East Bay’s emergence as a national tourism hot spot. Much of this reporting has focused on the area’s burgeoning urban food and…

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What's at the Market?

CCCFM celebrates 30 years of good food and community By Barbara Kobsar The longest-running nonprofit organization to operate a farmers’ market program in Contra Costa County is about to turn 30. Contra Costa Certified Farmers’ Markets (CCCFM) was brought to fruition by a small group of Master Gardeners and horticulture students from Diablo Valley College…

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What’s Cooking with Sustainable Seafood?

What’s Cooking with Sustainable Seafood? Getting hooked on best choices through fresh businesses, cookbooks, and practices By Sarah Henry Cathy Phillips wants to eat fish for health reasons—all those heart-healthy and brain-boosting omega-3s for starters—but like many ethical eaters she’s also eager to source seafood that is sustainable, caught close to home, and supports the…

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Opportunity Sprouts at Buttercup Farms

Opportunity Sprouts at Buttercup Farms By Patricia Hayse Haller Central Contra Costa County residents looking for fresh locally grown fruits and vegetables are in luck. A new community supported agriculture (CSA) project is under way in Clayton. Once the summer harvest starts in June, project managers at Buttercup Farms Garden expect to be offering 25…

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Incantations of a Spice Mistress

Incantations of a Spice Mistress: A review of  Quick-Fix Indian: Easy Exotic Dishes in 30 Minutes or Less by Ruta Kahate (Andrews McMeel Publishing 2012) Reviewed by Cheryl Angelina Koehler  I recall an especially poignant question Ruta Kahate posed at one of popular Indian cooking classes in Rockridge five years ago, right around the time her cookbook…

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Charcuterie on the Move

Notable Edibles Charcuterie on the Move: Scott Brennan’s Fifth Quarter By Stephanie Rosenbaum Photos by Nicki Rosario Everything is going mobile these days, so why not charcuterie? Scott Brennan’s Fifth Quarter brings all things fabulously meaty to the farmers’ market. “Fifth quarter” refers to all those nose-to-tail bits left over after the familiar steaks, chops, and roasts…

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GMO LABELING

GMO LABELING: Do we have a right to know? By Kristina Sepetys Illustrations by Otto Thorsen Genetic engineering promises food crops that can resist drought, insects, and disease; crops that can produce more bountiful yields at lower costs while helping to address hunger across the planet. But as with many new technologies, there are unknowns and…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

Sunday, April 29: It must be summer . . . or nearly so. After that rainy spell, everyone wants to be outdoors. This morning, my 119-year-old dog Pretzel decided to go stand in a patch of sun on the patio, where she was joined by a friendly doe. (You can see the the photo at…

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Farm to Shaker

Farm to Shaker:  Latest front on the local, seasonal sourcing movement We’ve all grown accustomed to the local “farm to fork” menus that highlight locally grown “organic,” “seasonal,” “artisanal,” and “sustainable” ingredients. But who expects to see those words on a cocktail menu? Oh, you do? Well, then, you may have been haunting Easy Lounge…

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Death of the Pop-Up

Story and photos by Melissa Schilling (Pictured above: Samin Nosrat) “Pop-ups are over!” —Chef Samin Nosrat, co-creator of Pop-Up General Store Could it be true? It was only two and a half years ago that chefs Samin Nosrat and Christopher Lee held their first Pop-Up General Store sale in a borrowed West Oakland catering facility.…

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Contents: SUMMER 2012

Editor’s Mixing Bowl Notable Edibles The Fifth Quarter Buttercup Farms CSA Death of the Pop-Up The Inspired Vegan: An interview with Bryant Terry on publication of his new cookbook Incantations of a Spice Mistress: A review of Ruta Kahate’s Quick-Fix Indian Secret Recipes: Things kids know that we don’t What’s at the Market? Seven Stars…

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A Feast for All the Seasons and All the Senses

An interview with Bryant Terry on food justice and inspired vegan cooking By Kristina Sepetys “I always go for flavor. If it’s not flavorful, I don’t eat it.” — Bryant Terry Piquant red beet tapenade crostini; butter bean and tomato-drenched collards with parsley; gingered black sesame brittle; or moist, rich ginger-molasses cake with walnuts .…

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CONTENTS: SPRING 2012

EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL LOCAL HEROES Laney College Bistro Terra Bella Family Farm Berkeley Bowl Marketplace URBAN ADAMAH: Jewish farm takes root in West Berkeley ALL THAT AN URBAN FARMER NEEDS TO KNOW: A book review of The Essential Urban Farmer SUPPLY UP! Resources for your spring garden A BEAN’S DEEP ROOTS IN THE EAST BAY:…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

It’s early February, and the flowering quince outside my window is in full bloom. The display is just a small part of the big flower show now unfolding all over the East Bay as the rose family relatives of this shrub—apples, pears, cherries, plums, apricots, nuts, and berries—prepare to produce summer fruits. It has me…

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FORAGING FOR THE GREATER GOOD: Why and how to target invasive aliens

FORAGING FOR THE GREATER GOOD: Why and how to target invasive aliens By Carol Rice, Illustrations by Cheryl Miller Did you know that California has been invaded by aliens? It’s true, and it’s been going on for a few centuries. Invasive aliens—species from other parts of the globe—are present in every habitat in the East Bay, whether…

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WATER: Another kind of harvest

WATER: Another kind of harvest By Jillian Steinberger, M.A., Illustration by Alan Leon Water is life. That’s true anywhere on the planet, but let’s put our own interests into perspective. In California, where we get almost no rainfall for six months each year, keeping the agua flowing has long required planning and infrastructure on the state level.…

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Seven Stars of Spring 2012

Seven Stars of Spring by Jessica Prentice Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven spring favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other…

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What's at the Market?

What’s at the Market? By Barbara Kobsar Illustration by Susanne Kaspar You’re never far from a farmers’ market here in the East Bay. Every day of the week—except Monday—there’s an open-air market where you can shop for fresh, in-season produce and specialty products. In the past, many farmers’ markets would typically fold up their tables…

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The Fava Bean’s Deep Roots in San Leandro

By Carrie Spector | Photos by Nicki Rosario I’m at Luso Mercado. The shop is easy to miss among the fast-food outlets on a busy stretch of East 14th Street in San Leandro, but this small market is holding fast to the East Bay’s Portuguese heritage. A couple of elderly men sit on stools at…

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The Fava Bean’s Deep Roots in the East Bay

By Carrie Spector I’m at Luso Mercado. The shop is easy to miss among the fast-food outlets on a busy stretch of East 14th Street in San Leandro, but this small market is holding fast to the East Bay’s Portuguese heritage. A couple of elderly men sit on stools at a counter near the register…

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AN EAST BAY TREASURE: Merritt College Landscape Horticulture

AN EAST BAY TREASURE: Merritt College Landscape Horticulture By Jillian Steinberger M.A. Thinking of a green career? Why not study under some of the Bay Area’s leading landscape professionals at Oakland’s Merritt College. The school’s Landscape Horticulture program offers over 20 full-credit classes per semester leading to certificates in Permaculture Design, Landscape Design, Landscape Construction, Nursery…

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SUPPLY UP! Resources for your spring garden

SUPPLY UP! Resources for your spring garden By Jillian Steinberger, M.A. Once upon a time in a land of milk and honey with a gentle Mediterranean climate, a wise garden elder said to his students (one of them was me), “Northern California is God’s country.” It’s easy to speak hyperbolically about the glories of gardening…

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The Essential Urban Farmer

ALL THAT AN URBAN FARMER NEEDS TO KNOW The Essential Urban Farmer, reviewed by Helen Krayenhoff Be forewarned: This is a rave, not a mere review! The Essential Urban Farmer, by Novella Carpenter and Willow Rosenthal, just published by Penguin Books, is a tome packed with hard-earned personal wisdom and experience now made available to…

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Urban Adamah

Urban Adamah: Jewish farm takes root in West Berkeley By Sarah Henry, Illustration by Alan Leon, Photos by Nicki Rosario Adam Berman is no novice farmer, having previously grown food on the East Coast. But he has been bowled over by the abundant harvests at Urban Adamah, the one-acre West Berkeley farm with Jewish roots where he…

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Local Heroes

Each year, Edible East Bay asks readers to vote for their Local Heroes in a number of categories. Laney College Bistro won by a landslide in two categories! Chef/Restaurant & Nonprofit: Laney College Bistro Want to have a white-tablecloth lunch for the price of takeout? Laney College Bistro, our readers’ Local Hero choice for both…

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Fall-Winter 2011 Contents

Editor’s Mixing Bowl Got Olive Trees? Community milling day at the Olivina in Livermore Notable Edibles: Ancient Organics AlgaeLab Tamales La Oaxaqueña An Edible Education Some of Our Favorite Things for Holiday Giving Inspired by the Orchard: Two book reviews and thoughts on pruning Teff, Gomen, Mitmita, Senefgebs: Menkir Tamrat brings Ethiopian heirlooms to the…

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The Farmer's Dilemma: Setting a Price

By Mike Madison, illustration by Helen Krayenhoff If you grow rice or wheat or corn or cotton, the price is set in the commodities futures trading markets. When you’re ready to sell, just check on your computer, and there’s the price. But if you grow specialty crops for sale at farmers markets, setting the price…

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Teff, Gomen, Mitmita, Senefgebs

Menkir Tamrat brings Ethiopian heirlooms to the East Bay  By Patricia Hayse Haller Like most of us, Menkir Tamrat has a special place in his heart for the foods he grew up with, foods he learned to make from his mother. He’s a passionate cook, and also has an urge to grow things. He believes…

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Something Spicy, Something Sweet: Tamales La Oaxaqueña

By Stephanie Rosenbaum with Illustrations by Robert Trujillo   Fans of Oakland’s monthly gallery stroll, Art Murmur, know to come hungry. The food-truck row that springs to life on the first Friday of each month has become as much of a community draw as the art itself. Our favorite eats there this season? The vibrantly…

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Seven Stars of the Fall/Winter Season

By Jessica Prentice Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven summer favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at www.localfoodswheel.com .…

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Inspired by the Orchard

Among the crop of newly published books that showed up on the Edible East Bay editorial desk in the fall 2011 season were two especially nice ones by local authors exploring the subject of fruit and the orchard. As I turned the pages of Plum Gorgeous and From Tree to Table, I couldn’t help thinking about…

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Gomen

From Teff, Gomen, Mitmita, Senefgebs by Patricia Hayse Haller Menkir Tamrat makes this Ethiopian dish during the colder months, when the greens are most tender. East Bay readers who want to prepare an authentic rendition can buy the abesha gomen (Ethiopian brassica) from Dale Coke at the Palo Alto Saturday or Menlo Park Sunday farmers’ markets.…

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Stylin’ Pie in Niles

Carolyn Berke dishes it up at Niles Pie Story and Photos by Katie Yen How do you run a successful bakery without a storefront and without a commercial kitchen of your own? For Carolyn Berke, who lives in the Niles District of Fremont, the answer is as easy as, well . . . . .…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

For the past year, I’ve had on my kitchen table the beautiful piece of pottery pictured at left. It’s of a size that suggests it could be used to hold a freshly baked batch of cookies, but so far, there have been no cookies in it, nor anything at all for that matter. Instead it’s…

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Lunch in Three Acts with Ariel

By Cheryl Angelina Koehler Photos by Robin Jolin “In certain villages in France, a light rain can be felt around noon in the narrow streets when people are shaking their lettuce dry out on their balconies.” Ariel is telling me this as I reach for her “French salad spinner,” an old wire basket that I…

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Got Olive Trees?

Community Milling at the Olivina in Livermore By Cheryl Angelina Koehler In Chianti, warmly dressed locals arrive at the communal mill in trucks and station wagons with plastic containers or sacks filled with olives and with stainless steel vessels or wicker-covered glass jugs for transporting their oil home. Sometimes there is a little pushing and…

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Some of our Favorite Things for Holiday Giving

At Edible East Bay, we spend a lot of time perusing the two East Bay counties for things we find worth writing about, so when it comes time for holiday gift shopping, we know right where we want to go. We especially like supporting the local economy with our purchases. GIFTS MADE BY FARMERS .…

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Cheese Does a Body Good: A holistic cheese tour

Story and photos by Melissa Schilling Praise cheeses! They taste so good. But how much do we really know about the significance of cheese in our daily diet? If you really want to know cheeses, whether as a taster, a cheese maker, or an affineur (a specialist in the curing and maturing of cheeses) you’ll…

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Butteressence

By Stephanie Rosenbaum Photos by Stacy Ventura Vegans love their coconut oil. Omnivores swear by lard (from pasture-raised local pigs, of course). Isn’t it time for butter to get some praise in the kitchen, too? But some butter is better than other butter, and thanks to Ancient Organics in West Berkeley, you can butter up…

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An Edible Education

By Sarah Henry They’re the hottest tickets in town and they’re not for any music, theater, or sporting event. The 700 seats for Edible Education 101: The Rise and Future of the Food Movement at the University of California, Berkeley—400 for students and 300 for members of the general public—were snapped up within minutes. The…

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Algae for All!

By Stephanie Rosenbaum A photobioreactor on every windowsill! It might not roll off the tongue like the 1928 Republican campaign slogan promising a chicken in every pot, but according to Aaron Baum, artist, scientist, algae evangelist, and founder of AlgaeLab, growing your own spirulina is the key to personal health and vitality, and the next…

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What’s in Season? Nuts!

By Barbara Kobsar with Illustrations by Helen Krayenhoff With the shortening days of autumn, the falling of the leaves, and the distant thunder of the holiday season, I’m reminded that it’s time to gather nuts. It’s not just about squirreling them away, however. Nuts in the shell are at their freshest and best only once…

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Castagnaccio: Italian Chestnut Cake

From What’s in Season? Nuts! by Barbara Kobsar ⅔ cup sultanas, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes 4 cups chestnut flour ¼ cup sugar Zest of 1 orange Pinch salt 2½–3 cups cold water 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves ¼ cup walnuts, chopped ¼ cup pine nuts Preheat…

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A Conversation with Colleen Patrick-Goudreau

A Conversation with Colleen Patrick-Goudreau: author of The 30-Day Vegan Challenge By Cheryl Angelina Koehler, editor of Edible East Bay I came of age as a cook in the early 1970s. It was a time when prevailing ideas and values circulating through the counterculture had many of us turning toward plant-based diets. Interest in Eastern…

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Oakland Contemplates a “Bill of Rights” for Urban Farmers

Oakland Contemplates a “Bill of Rights” for Urban Farmers Story and photos By Jess Watson Annabelle had always been a difficult rabbit. Esperanza Pallana acquired her in 2010 as a breeding rabbit for her Lake Merritt–area urban farm, Pluck & Feather (www.pluckandfeather.com). From the beginning the rabbit’s behavior was skittish and neurotic, and she showed…

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Gardens of Darkness: Mushroom farming in a concrete jungle

Gardens of Darkness: Mushroom farming in a concrete jungle Story and photos by Matthew Green Nikhil Arora wears sleek glasses, a flashy watch, and a pinstriped button-down. He recently graduated summa cum laude in business from Cal, has given serious thought to investment banking, and knows how to deliver a smooth sales pitch. So when…

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The Dish on Dairy Dirt: Ruminations on composted manure

The Dish on Dairy Dirt: Ruminations on composted manure By Helen Krayenhoff   As organic growers of vegetable plant starts, Peggy Kass and I get to have a hand in helping people with an enthusiastic answer to the oft-repeated question, “Where does our food come from?” We answer by saying, “It comes from my home…

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Cheese Without the Cow

The non-dairy artisanal delights of raw nut cheeses   By Jillian Steinberger | Photos by Stacy Ventura   So, raw nut cheese . . . raw nut cheese . . . What is raw nut cheese? If you don’t know, no worries. This would not be a food you see on TV. It’s kind of…

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A Passion for Gravensteins in the Bay Wolf Kitchen

Story and photo by Anita Chu   For the past 8 years, Jennifer Altman has been creating the perfect endings to meals at Bay Wolf restaurant in Oakland, or “tying the ribbon that binds the whole visit together,” as she puts it. Her style fits the refined-rustic vibe of Bay Wolf, a beloved Oakland mainstay,…

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The Lazy Gourmet: cookbook review

A Lazy Albany Gourmet goes after the Neighborhood Radishes By Cheryl Angelina Koehler When Albany resident Robin Donovan and her friend Juliana Gallin started writing a cookbook some years back, they weren’t thinking about gardening or sharing neighborhood produce. “Growing your own vegetables isn’t especially ‘lazy,’” said Robin after the release of The Lazy Gourmet:…

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Seven Stars of the Harvest Season

Seven Stars of the Harvest Season By Jessica Prentice Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven summer favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the…

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What's in Season? Eggplants!

What’s in Season? Eggplants By Barbara Kobsar Paintings by Celia Wedding Late summer is when the eggplants, along with their nightshade sisters, the peppers and tomatoes, come to market all dressed up in vivid colors and scrumptious flavors. While the French and the British commonly refer to any and all eggplants as aubergines, Australians call…

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Transition groups plant the seed

Local Visionaries: Transition groups plant the seeds for a homegrown future By Rachel Trachten, photos by Nicki Rosario At Albany’s “Great Unleashing,” the talk was of growing food, going solar, and living more simply. On a Sunday in May, groups gathered inside the Veterans’ Memorial Building and on the lawn, posing such questions as: Can…

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The Shareable Food Movement Meets the Law

The Shareable Food Movement Meets the Law By Kelly Densmore and Janelle Orsi, Sustainable Economies Law Center (SELC) Adapted from a longer article originally published by Shareable on www.shareable.net/blog/the-shareable-food-movement-meets-the-law   The Health Department didn’t show up when I made dinner for my neighbors last night. Fortunately, our health and safety laws don’t usually dictate how…

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Give and Take: The East Bay’s Growing Food-Sharing Culture

Give and Take: The East Bay’s Growing Food-Sharing Culture By Sarah Henry Pictured: Some of the homemade goods offered at the East Bay Homemade Food Swap. (Photos courtesy of Becky Spencer.) Sharing has made a comeback. East Bay residents are now bartering, trading, exchanging, swapping, or simply giving away an abundance of homegrown produce or…

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Food Forward: The Feel-Good Food Series

Food Forward: The Feel-Good Food Series By Kristina Sepetys Berkeley resident and filmmaker Greg Roden and his long-time friend and collaborator, the food journalist Stett Holbrook, think that the myriad problems with the American food system have been depressingly well documented. They’re more interested in solutions. So they’ve made the pilot for what they hope…

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OLD BRICKS NEW MORTAR: Food Cart Meets Landmark Restaurant

OLD BRICKS NEW MORTAR: Food Cart Meets Landmark Restaurant By Rhasaan Fernandez with photos by Robin Jolin This is the Bay Area—the great melting pot of our agrarian state and home to a unique metropolitan fondness for craft in the kitchen. Rise and Fall of a Guerilla Marketing Concept Early in 2010, I became a…

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Start Me Up: Starter Bakery

Start Me Up: Starter Bakery By Stephanie Rosenbaum, photos by Stacy Ventura What’s better than Starter Bakery’s buttery, flaky, fresh-from-the-oven croissants, made in small batches, baked locally, and sold at the Temescal Farmers’ Market? Well, imagine that same stretchy dough layered with sugar and salted butter, folded in on itself to resemble the scrunchy face…

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Eichlers for Chickens?

One-of-a-Kind Chicken Coops by Just Fine Design By Stephanie Rosenbaum with photos by Stacy Ventura Here we are in Kensington, driving up winding streets named for Ivy League colleges and English prep schools, breathtaking Bay views on the left, tree-lined, lavishly landscaped houses on our right. It’s green and quiet, just what you’d expect from…

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Harvest 2011 Contents

EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL NOTABLE EDIBLES: Just Fine Design Starter Bakery Boffo Cart and Sam’s Log Cabin Food Forward PBS TV Show GIVE AND TAKE: The East Bay’s growing food-sharing culture The Shareable Food Movement Meets the Law LOCAL VISIONARIES: Transition groups plant the seeds for a homegrown future The Lazy Gourmet meets Transition Albany WHAT’S…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

Editor’s Mixing Bowl When the current recession started back in late 2007, I remember thinking that we would have to fasten our seatbelts tightly for what could be a wild ride through a year or so of rough terrain. I also wondered if perhaps the roads would become safer as the monstrous SUVs proved uneconomical,…

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The Urban Homesteading Movement Comes of Age

Ruby in her backyard with a newborn bunny (photo by Jess Watson).   K. Ruby Blume is in her element. Standing in front of a packed cheesemaking class, she waves her arms, jokes, asks questions, and calls for volunteers. She is all coiled energy and dynamic movement. Within the first 15 minutes, one student is…

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Summer 2011 Contents

Editor’s Mixing Bowl Notable Edibles: Skylite Snowballs Fist of Flour Studebaker Pickles Cranky Boots Pops Five Star Marinade Notable Reads: Chewy, Gooey, Crispy, Crunchy Field Guide to California Agriculture Why Do You Need So Many Cookbooks?: An interview with Marie Simmons Pick It!: What’s in season at the Brentwood U-picks Recipe: Raw Cherry Pie Seven…

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Local Grain

Local Grain from Field to Plate: Part II (see Edible East Bay Fall/Winter 2010 for Part I) By Elizabeth Linhart Money Photo: Northern-California-grown grain going into the stone mill at Miller’s Bakehouse near Chico. (by Earl Bloor of Edible Shasta-Butte). It’s late autumn 2010, wheat-planting time in the Central Valley. The 600 loamy Yolo County…

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Mien Gardens and Makeshift Fences

Mien gardens and makeshift fences at Peralta Hacienda Historical Park Story and photos by Matthew Green On an early-spring afternoon, Mey Yan Saechao is standing among tall, yellow-flowering mustard in her small garden plot at Oakland’s Peralta Hacienda Historic Park. The six-acre park is in the Fruitvale district, and Mey Yan’s plot is behind its…

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Community Gardening

Evolving Views on Community Gardening By Cheryl Angelina Koehler, with photos by Nicki Rosario (top to bottom): Looking northeast to the hills from the Hayward Community Gardens (HCG), Jorge Nunez planting chile de arbol and some “really spicy” miura peppers at the HCG, Francisco Flores tending his bees at the HGC. There is no website…

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Seven Stars of Summer

Seven Stars of Summer By Jessica Prentice Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven summer favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other…

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Pick it!

How to get the most out of your u-pick trip to Brentwood By Barbara Kobsar | Illustrations by Zina Deretsky and Helen Krayenhoff   Every year in May, the passion to pick my own fruits and vegetables resurges faithfully. My backyard garden offers a smattering of baby carrots, potatoes, early tomatoes, and herbs to pick in…

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Why do you need so many cookbooks?

 An interview with cookbook author Marie Simmons By Cheryl Angelina Koehler with photos by Robin Jolin It’s a recurring question posed to those of us with large cookbook collections: “Why do you need so many?” These days, when a few key words typed into a search engine will quickly yield several good recipe options to…

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Shortcut Corn Risotto with Summer “Succotash”

From Why Do You Need So Many Cookbooks?   From Fresh & Fast Vegetarian: Recipes that Make a Meal By Marie Simmons Houghton Mifflin, April 2011 Photograph by Luca Travoto Here’s the recipe you’ll need when fresh sweet corn arrives in abundance. It’s what Marie makes to celebrate fresh corn, sweet juicy tomatoe,s and tender…

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Raw Cherry Pie

From Pick It! How to get the most out of your Brentwood u-pick trip. Plant-based, raw, and perfectly yummy! Makes one 9-inch pie 3 cups macadamia nuts (If you are not making a lattice topping use only 2¼ cups.) ⅛ teaspoon salt 2¼ ounces (dry weight) sea moss, coarsely chopped (If you are new to sea…

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Field Guide

Out and About with The Field Guide to California Agriculture By Paul F. Starrs and Peter Goin, University of California Press, Berkeley 2010 Reviewed by Kristina Sepetys, photos by Peter Goin In a recent conversation with a food-savvy friend, she described taking an afternoon drive in which she passed some cows grazing on rain-soaked green…

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Chewy, Gooey

Cookies 2.0 Alice Medrich’s Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy: Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies (Artisan Books, 2010) Reviewed By Anita Chu There are countless cookie cookbooks out there these days. Pick one off the shelf, check its table of contents, and you are almost certain to find the usual suspects listed: chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, sugar, peanut butter, and…

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Five Star Marinade

A Portuguese Family History in a Bottle Story and photo by Katie Rose Yen   Food is always at the heart of any family holiday gathering, and more often than not certain dishes are there, prepared again and again, preserving longstanding traditions. For Portuguese American Burt Amaral, it’s his grandmother’s carne de vinha d’alhos that…

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Cranky Boots Pops

How Ms. Amanda Yee and Mr. Aland Welford Invented Cranky Boots Pops Story and illustrations by Robert Trujillo I’ve known Aland Welford for more than 15 years. I know his passion for food firsthand from eating with him at countless tables both big and small. Whether it was at a local hole in the wall…

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Studebaker Pickles

In a Pickling Habit: Studebaker Pickles By Stephanie Rosenbaum, with photos by Stacy Ventura Kate Hug, briner-in-chief of the recently launched Studebaker Pickles, taught herself how to pickle while she was attending college in Portland, Oregon. “It rains a lot up there, so everyone knows how to knit and preserve things,” she laughs. When she…

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Fist of Flour

An East Oakland Pizza Obsession: Fist of Flour By Stephanie Rosenbaum | Photos by Stacy Ventura   This is what pizza can do to a man: One day, you’re James Whitehead, a kid from Belmont, enthralled by the pizza-spinners at Pasquale’s in the Inner Sunset, spending endless after-school hours at Village Pizza and Pizza &…

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Skylite Snowballs

Cool Blue: Skylite Snowballs By Stephanie Rosenbaum with photos by Aya Brackett On that hot August day two years ago, elbow-to-elbow with the sweaty crowds at Oakland’s first Eat Real Festival, all photographer Katie Baum wanted was a sweet, icy-cold snowball. Not the kind you’d throw at the back of your brother’s head, but a…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

In spite of all the reports about our nation’s dwindling farmland, here in the East Bay we can still go out to Brentwood in early summer and pick fruit. It’s a fairly straightforward activity and appeals, as it has for decades, to families looking for something fun to do together. The ready-mix trucks may outnumber…

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Envisioning Sustainable Futures for Urban Farms

Envisioning Sustainable Futures for Urban Farms Story and Photos by Jess Watson A huge bramble of blackberry bushes sprawls at the corner of 28th and Peralta in Dogtown, the only hint of the future crops that will be grown on the 1.4-acre triangular lot after its transformation into the West Oakland Park and Urban Farm.…

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Oakland’s Farm Fresh Approach to School Food

Oakland’s Farm Fresh Approach to School Food By Sarah Henry Move over Berkeley, another East Bay school district is gaining ground on the school food revolution front. The Berkeley Unified School District’s School Lunch Initiative frequently and fairly garners kudos as a model for school eats and education around the country (see sidebar near end…

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Book Review

Getting to the Heart: A review of Heart of the Artichoke and other kitchen journeys by David Tanis, Artisan Books, 2010 Chez Panisse chef David Tanis’s new cookbook, Heart of the Artichoke, begs for a whole evening curled up on the sofa with a glass of vin santo. This is a book to read word…

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Crisp Fried Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Feta and Mint

Crisp Fried Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Feta and Mint Recipe by Marie Simmons, Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff   A bagful of squash blossoms from the farmers market sent me back a few decades to my childhood. My mother harvested the blossoms from the tangled zucchini patch in our garden, dipped them in egg and flour,…

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Offal

Eating Offal: It takes guts By Sage Dilts (Pictured here is the charcuterie plate always on the menu at Café Rouge. Two house-made pâtés flank slices of the smoked tongue, for which owner Marsha McBride and butcher Scott Brennan received a 2011 Good Food Award. For more information about the awards, click here. Photo by…

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Seven Stars of Spring

Seven Stars of Spring By Jessica Prentice with line drawings are by Sarah Klein (sarahklein.com) colored by Maggie Gosselin Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven best bets for…

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What's at the Market?

What’s at the Market By Barbara Kobsar, Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff Each farmers market is “shaped” by size and location but “flavored” by its unique group of farmers and vendors, as well as shoppers. Yes, shoppers! I’m as likely to see a regular shopper as I am to find a favorite grower at the markets.…

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Chocolate Candied Orange Biscotti

From Ode to an Orange Peel: a story about how Chef Siew-Chinn Chin makes and uses citrus peels in her kitchen.     Makes about 3 dozen 2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt ¾ cup sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 large eggs 2…

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Shaker Lemon Tart

From Ode to an Orange Peel: a story about how Chef Siew-Chinn Chin makes and uses citrus peels in her kitchen.     It’s no surprise that Siew-Chinn Chin appreciates this tart, which originates from the 19th-century Ohio Shaker community, where cooks were well known and respected for their baking skills. Shaker beliefs dictated that…

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Candied Citrus Peel

Siew-Chinn’s Candied Citrus Peels Siew-Chinn would never let a fruit peel go to waste. Fortunately, most citrus peels can be candied and kept in the fridge for a long time for future use. To prepare, first cut the citrus in half crosswise and juice the fruit with a reamer or juicer, reserving the juice for…

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Ode to a Fruit Peel

Poetic renderings from Siew-Chinn Chin’s Kitchen Story and photos by Helen Krayenhoff   On a cold winter’s day, we are sitting in the warm kitchen of Siew-Chinn Chin, a pastry chef and Oakland resident who works at Chez Panisse. Slender and energetic, with a sparkle in her eye, Siew-Chinn moves nimbly from counter to fridge…

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Annals of an Urban Beekeeper

Annals of an Urban Beekeeper: Khaled Almaghafi of Queen of Sheba Farms Story and photo by Jessica Watson It isn’t easy being an urban bee. In addition to resisting the widespread Colony Collapse Disorder, urban bees must navigate fearful neighbors wielding insecticidal spray and face the daily challenge of locating plants suitable for foraging. For…

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Slow Money

Slow Money: The movement for sustainable financing options for food and farming enterprises in the East Bay By Kristina Sepetys | Photo by Stacy Ventura   It’s the end of a perfect fall day and the Northern California chapter of Slow Money is calling to order its monthly meeting in a conference room in the…

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Goodbye, Green Jell-o

Goodbye, green Jell-O Local healthcare professionals are bringing a more nutritious green hue to hospital food   By Helene Kremer About this quilt: Jane Kelly, a Health Promotion Specialist at John Muir Medical Center is an avid food gardener, and passionate health enthusiast. She was inspired to make this quilt by the objectives of the…

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Local Heroes 2010

Edible East Bay holds its annual Local Hero Awards voting as part of its involvement with Edible Communities, Inc. The announcements of the winners from each of our 70+ regional Edible Communities magazines help to raise broader awareness of the achievements by small to mid-sized businesses in reinvigorating the traditions of local food production. In…

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Grow Your gardening Inspiration

Grow your gardening inspiration with East Bay garden pros at the San Francisco Flower & Garden Show—March 23–27 Story and photo by Katie Trevino-Zimmerman Pictured: Linda Bennett, Stefani Bittner, and Linval “Fishtea” Owens of Star Apple Edible Gardens As more and more people get on the local-food bandwagon, some are proudly answering the movement’s central…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

Food is fundamental to our own health, and also to the health of our communities. The movement for clean, healthy food for all people has deep and easily traceable roots in the soils of Berkeley, where Chez Panisse is about to celebrate its 40th anniversary. That restaurant’s founder, Alice Waters, was on hand January 14…

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Spring 2011 Contents

Editor’s Mixing Bowl SF Flower & Garden Show: Oakland’s Star Apple Edible Gardens is the star Local Hero Award Winners Goodbye, Green Jell-O: Local healthcare professionals are bringing a more nutritious green hue to hospital food Slow Money: The movement for sustainable financing options for food and farming enterprises in the East Bay Annals of…

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Branzino Sotto Sale

  Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass with Herb Lemon Sauce Recipe from My Calabria by Rosetta Costantino (W.W. Norton & Company, © 2010) reprinted with permission Roasting a whole fish buried in salt is a cooking method common all over Southern Italy. Surprisingly, the cooked fish isn’t excessively salty, but it is exceptionally moist, much more so than…

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Letter to the Editor

Wednesday, August 11, 2010 Dear Editor, I really like Edible East Bay, and I look forward to reading about upcoming events, as well as local eateries and food trends. In the Harvest 2010 issue, I was very sad to see the phrase “organic, biodynamic, or sustainable farming” in Mr. Middlebrook’s wine article. Inserting “biodynamic” in…

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Molly’s Chèvre

Adapted from Goats Produce Too! The Udder Real Thing, written and published by Mary Jane Toth. If you’ve never made cheese before, go to the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company website, cheesemaking.com, where there are tutorials on every part of the process described here. 5 quarts goat milk ¼ cup fresh cultured buttermilk ⅓ cup…

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eeb goes tête-à-tête with the Foodoodler

Those who claim they can see back through the smoke into memories of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto in the 1970s recall that there was quite a bit more going on than the currentlytold popular history tends to cover, like for instance, that there were other players besides Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower, and Alfred Peet. Also, they…

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Heritage Wheat

What would it take to revive a local grain economy? Part I By Elizabet h Linhart Money Photos by Teal Dudziak We Bay Area diners can be a discriminating bunch. We like knowing where our food comes from and we want to taste the landscape in every bite. We get a kick out of curing…

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On the Cusp of Greatness?

California’s Intensive Olive Oil Industry By Tim Kingston If ever there was a market sector ready to take off, California olive oil is it, and Dino Cortopassi, founder of Stockton’s family-owned Corto Olive Oil, is doing all he can to give wings to his product. Cortopassi looks every inch the canny farmer and family patriarch.…

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SEVEN STARS OF FALL/WINTER

Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven best bets for the fall and winter season. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures…

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Grilled Potimarron with Salsa Verde

This Italian style salsa verde can be made with any combination of herbs. “Don’t be afraid to experiment.” —AP 1 fully mature potimarron, cut into wedges1 medium shallot, minced1 tablespoon white wine vinegar1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves only (about 2cups), finely chopped½ bunch mint, leaves only (about ½ cup), finely chopped2 cloves garlic, finely minced2…

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Potimarron with Almonds, Garlic, and Aleppo Pepper

A good way to use semi-mature potimarron. Even at full maturity, potimarron has a tender skin that does not need to be pared away. 1 potimarron, cut into wedges1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil2 cups slivered almonds1 tablespoon garlic, finely minced1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oilPinch saltPinch Aleppo pepper1 tablespoon parsley, chopped1 lemon, slicedParmigiano-Reggiano Preheat oven…

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Potimarron Jeune in Tomato Sauce

“The possibilities on this riff are endless. Try it with any summer squash variety.” —AP Several potimarron jeune (or summer squash), cut into 1-inch cubes1 large Italian eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper to taste12 ounces of an oily type fish, such as yellowtail,tuna, sardines, or mackerel2 cups tomato sauce…

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What Do You Do with a Black Futsu?

By Cheryl Angelina Koehler Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff Should you find yourself blessed with a specimen of this uniquely beautiful winter squash, you might do exactly as I did and place it on the kitchen table to admire for several weeks. Then you might give it to an artist friend to paint. And sometime later,…

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A LIFE IN FOOD MADE BY HAND

Lessons with Rosetta Costantino story and photos By Cheryl Angelina Koehler We’re making orecchiette, a pasta shape whose name in Italian means “little ears.” It requires a deft hand, we discover, as we roll the dough into long snakes and cut thumbnail-size rounds, attempting to drag each one with the knife across the cutting board…

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Goats!

Coming soon to a back yard near you? Story and photos by Jess Watson I press my forehead into the side of Prima’s warm belly, looking down as I concentrate on the first pull, struggling to break the seal. A stream of hot goat milk from each teat skitters the test container and threatens to topple…

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Blueberry Pickled Fish

Any meat or fat that is stored in blueberries will become pickled, developing a unique color and flavor within a few days to a week.  Clean and gut some fat trout or whitefish and then hang it to dry for three days. Hanging and drying are necessary to toughen the fish so it won’t fall…

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Reclaiming a Native Harvest

story and illustrations By Gilberto Daniel Rodriguez Through the winding waterways of the Arctic, across the bright South Dakota plains, and into the dense multitudes of an Oakland boulevard, traditional Native food practices are being rediscovered, stengthened, and invigorated.  They find an ally in the Seva Foundation, an East Bay service organization. For over 30…

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One good green idea leads to another at Grand Lake Gardens

By Cheryl Angelina Koehler Joe and Doris Pummill have no complaints about the quality of life at Grand Lake Gardens, a 1960s-vintage retirement community located right at the Grand Avenue/ I-580 interchange in North Oakland. Well, actually, Joe does have one small complaint . . . “You’re so entertained here with all the organized activities…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

As you read this, you may have just cast your ballot in the mid-term election, and while it’s appropriate to congratulate yourself for doing so, you are not done yet. You still need to go online and vote for your Local Heroes of the East Bay food community. You’ll find more information on how to…

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Fall-Winter 2010 Contents

Editor’s Mixing Bowl A Letter to the Editor A response to the Natural Wine article in our Harvest 2010 issue One Good Green Idea Leads to Another at Grand Lake Gardens By Cheryl Angelina Koehler Reclaiming a Native Harvest By Gilberto Daniel Rodriguez Goats! Coming soon to a backyard near you By Jess Watson A…

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Roasted Winter Squash with Green Curry Sauce

    Chef Anthony Paone created this recipe our Fall/Winter 2010 issue story, “What Do You Do with a Black Futsu” when he was at Sea Salt, a seafood-forward restaurant formerly on San Pablo in Berkeley. The original recipe featured the black futsu squash, a unique variety that geneticist and seed breeder Fred Hempel was growing…

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Gulf Shrimp Sauté

  From the story Scott Miller’s Market Hall Courtesy of Scott Miller, executive chef of The Pasta Shop and Market Hall Foods After the Deepwater Horizon oil spill disaster, wild Gulf shrimp is still being harvested, and every purchase of Gulf shrimp helps the livelihood of people who are sustained by this industry. 1 pound…

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A life in Food Made By Hand

Lessons with Rosetta Costantino Story and photos by Cheryl Angelina Koehler Rosetta Costantino tends a tomato plant on the deck portion of the garden at her family’s home in Oakland’s Montclair district, where the terrain is as steep as it was in her native Calabria. We’re making orecchiette, a pasta shape that translates from the…

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Mostaccioli con Mandorle

From A Life in Food Made by Hand     Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and Anisette In the southern Italian region of Calabria, Christmas celebrations would not be complete without mostaccioli. These hard cookies might be among the region’s oldest sweets, says cookbook author Rosetta Costantino, a native Calabrian who lives, gardens, and…

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Blackberry Vinegar

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma’s The Art of Preserving: Sweet & savory recipes to enjoy seasonal produce year-round. ½ cup fresh mint leaves (optional), thoroughly rinsed, patted dry, and roughly chopped 4 cups white wine vinegar or rice vinegar3 cups blackberries, crushedEquipment:A large, clean, nonreactive bowlA nonreactive saucepan2 one-pint bottles, sterilized just before using In the saucepan,…

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Warm Shelling Bean Salad with Grilled Shrimp

Adapted from Eating Local: The Cookbook Inspired by America’s Farmers Shelling beans should be in good supply this season as growers have stepped up production to meet rising demand. When you purchase shrimp for this recipe, look for Pacific Coast wildcaughtpink shrimp, which are a Best Choice according to the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s SeafoodWATCH program…

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DEBORAH MADISON IN BERKELEY

An interview at TRAX Gallery BY CAROLYN MILLER In a case of perfect timing, Deborah Madison came to town at the height of berry and stone fruit season to discuss her latest cookbook, Seasonal Fruit Desserts: From Orchard, Farm, and Market (Broadway, 2010). The famed founding chef of Greens restaurant in San Francisco is the…

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Cooking With Fire

Evolutionary then and now? BY SUZANNE SAUCY It’s midsummer and I’m tending a campfire under a clear, star-filled sky at an elevation of 7,500 feet. As I watch the red-orange embers and listen to the crackle of burning logs, I find myself pondering the meaning of fire to our early human ancestors. For them fire…

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Scott Miller’s Market Hall

Sending a Message to the Market  Quality and Sustainability Don’t Come Cheap Story and photos by Tim Kingston Scott Miller, the dark-haired, wiry, hyperkinetic executive chef at The Pasta Shop and Market Hall Foods, has a new mission, one that has blossomed far beyond providing local foodies with top-quality meat, vegetables, poultry, and fish. He…

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Tamale Secrets at Union City’s Ramírez Farm

Real Mexican field corn flourishes near the Fremont BART By Patricia Hayse Haller | Photos by Cheryl Angelina Koehler At first glance, the most remarkable thing about the Ramirez farm in Union City is that it is there at all. Just two blocks (less than a tenth of a mile) from the BART station in…

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Stirring Up Passions

    Rachel Saunders and her Blue Chair Fruit Company Story and photos by Rita Hurault with David Gans Rachel Saunders was cooking up a batch of strawberry-rose jam when we visited the Oakland kitchen of her Blue Chair Fruit Company last May. As we approached, the aroma of berries brightened the air stirred a…

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POMEGRANATE PASSAGES

By Susan Unger | Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff     Each year in late October, I begin harvesting the pomegranates that are drooping from the tree in my back yard. It’s an arduous process that starts with yanking and cutting the fruits from their branches and then taking them into the kitchen to hack them…

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On Produce Overload?

How to Make the Most of a Plentiful HarvestBy Cheryl Angelina Koehler Last April as I was editing our summer issue’s article about the expanding community-supported agriculture (CSA) model, I took a small leap and signed up for a weekly veggie box. The result has been exactly as expected: Every seven days I find myself…

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Seven Stars of the Harvest Season

Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven best bets for the harvest season. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com…

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WHAT’S IN SEASON?

BEANS By Barbara Kobsar This May, I decided I would test my gardening skills and plant a Three Sisters garden of corn, beans, and squash. The native peoples of North America revered these crops as the “sustainers of life,” and called them the Three Sisters not only for the human nourishment they provide, but also…

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East Bay Winemakers, Naturally

By Mark Middlebrook illustration by Margo Rivera-Weiss Wine would seem to be the quintessential natural beverage: pick grapes, crush grapes, and wait a little while for the native yeasts that nestle on grape skins to do their job of converting sugar to alcohol. Yet the history of winemaking, especially since the 20th century, has been…

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Eating Street Food in eVille

By Derrick Schneider | Photos by Melissa Schneider     When I started working in Emeryville two years ago as a server-side programmer for a videogame studio, the foodie friend who had suggested me for the job gave me a rundown of the local lunch options in easy walking distance. He finished his short list…

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An Interview with Susan Coss, Director of the Eat Real Festival

eat real festival 2010 Friday, August 27, 2–9 p.m. Saturday, August 28, 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Sunday, August 29, 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Jack London Square in downtown Oakland eatrealfest.com Edible East Bay: Susan, what is the Eat Real Festival? Susan Coss: Simply put, Eat Real is a three-day celebration of the good and delicious food grown…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

On December 31, 2009, as I was bidding the old year adieu at Bosco’s Bones and Brew in Sunol, a young man dressed in the scrappy garb of a 21st-century urban homesteader came into the bar carrying a box filled with unlabeled jars of home-canned pickles. One by one, he started passing out the jars…

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Taste…

Taste . . . . . . the tender pulled pork sandwich at Café 15 (597 15th St, Oakland); smooth and strong AeroPress coffee at Catahoula Coffee Company (12471 San Pablo Ave, Richmond); a spicy vegan taquito plate at Flacos (new restaurant at 3091 Adeline St, Berkeley, in addition to their Berkeley Farmers’ Markets booths);…

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Harvest 2010 Contents

Editor’s Mixing Bowl Taste… An Interview with Susan Coss, director of the Eat Real Festival Eating Street Food in eVille By Derrick Schneider East Bay Winemakers, Naturally By Mark Middlebrook What’s in Season: Beans By Barbara Kobsar Seven Stars of the Harvest Season By Jessica Prentice with Maggie Gosselin and Sarah Klein On produce overload?…

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A Vegan’s Dream and an Omnivore’s Delight

Story By Andrea Pflaumer photos by travis smith Commenting on what he perceived as a decline in political activism, satirist Mort Sahl once said, “These days, the bravest thing people do is go to a restaurant that hasn’t yet been reviewed.” These days one of the most political things we do involves where and how…

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Greening the College Cafeteria

Bon Appétit Management By Tim Kingston Herb Polenta topped with Pesto and Mushrooms, Ginger Glazed Tilapia, Potato Cakes, Jasmine Rice (tasty in every grain), followed by Lemon Curd Pastry Squares—all made “from scratch”—are not the kind of mouthwatering vittles this scribe remembers snarfing down in his college cafeteria some decades back.  But such was the…

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Community Supported, Community Scale

CSA and the Value of Meaningful Work By Sage Dilts There’s no doubt that we’re seeing renewed interest in the arts of homemaking these days, with many people rediscovering the benefits of working in the kitchen and garden. That trend has come as people awaken to the reality that the industrial food system, with its…

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Cooking with Berries

Recipes from Café Rouge In early summer, when berries come tumbling into the markets, no chef can resist them as a garnish. Berries start poking out from amid the micro greens in salads, and a homey berry cobbler suddenly appears on every dessert menu. The chefs at Cafe Rouge are as enthused about berries as…

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Seven Stars of the Summer Season

Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven best bets for the summer season. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com…

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What’s In Season: Berries

By Barbara Kobsar, Illustrations by Wendy Yoshimura Once the signs go up at the farmers markets, I’m on high alert, since some of our local berries appear for only a few short weeks.   Strawberries   California accounts for an astounding threequarters of our national strawberry production, and this popular berry now seems to be…

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o cookie beloved

East Bay cookie lovers reach for more than chocolate chips story and photos* By Anita Chu Looking for a local cookie of quality? The East Bay has plenty to offer, from virtuosic versions of international classics to inspired originals. Memorable Madeleines   With their distinctive fluted seashell shape and famous role as memory-jogger for Marcel…

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Lessons in Corned Beef Sustainability

Saul’s Deli asks Itself Some Picklish Questions story By Matthew Green illustrations by margo rivera-weiss In New York City, where I was born and bred, the Jewish deli has long been an institution as inviolate as any formal religious sanctuary; a place of solace, familiarity, and tradition in a town well known for its furious…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

As some readers know and others don’t, Edible East Bay is a member of Edible Communities, a large family of magazines sharing a commitment to reporting on the local, sustainable food movement. As of August, when our Harvest 2010 issue comes out, Edible East Bay will have been publishing under that mission for five full…

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Summer 2010

CONTENTS SUMMER 2010 6 EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL 8 EDIBLE EVENTS 18 LESSONS IN CORNED BEEF SUSTAINABILITY By Matthew Green 20 O COOKIE BELOVED By Anita Chu 22 BUGS IN THE BALANCE By Helen Krayenhoff 26 WHAT’S IN SEASON: Berries By Barbara Kobsar SEVEN STARS OF THE SEASON By Jessica Prentice with Maggie Gosselin and Sarah…

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Weedy Greens

The Great Recession’s Latest Crop By Jillian Steinberger, M.A., BFQL | Illustrations by Bonnie Borucki   Um . . . Did someone say, “Free food”? After six years developing an edible test garden for my landscaping business, I’ve come to regard weeds as crops. In times like these, you just can’t let a great—and super-local—source of…

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Local Halibut in Albariño Crazy Water

  From Gather Restaurant in Berkeley Serves 4 1 pound local halibut, cut into 1-inch cubes 12 fresh mussels ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 3 whole shallots, thinly sliced ½ bulb fennel, thinly sliced 2 Calabrian chiles (or other hot Italian chile), thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons high quality tomato…

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Bugs in the Balance

Story and Illustration by Helen Krayenhoff On a beautiful spring day shortly after we moved into our new house, I noticed that the rosebuds on the bush in the front yard were literally covered in red aphids. I thought to myself, “I have to get out the insecticidal soap and blast those little buggers off…

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A Bowl of steaming Juk

By Su (mother) and Mia (daughter) Buchignani “Wow! This completely reminds me of something my mom would have made in her crockpot. It makes me feel like home.”—Melissa A standard breakfast in our household was a big bowl of steaming juk. This rice porridge, which is also known as jook, hsi-fan, congee, or zhou, is…

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Festive Dumplings

Adapted from The Asian Grandmothers Cookbookby Patricia Tanumihardja This dessert is eaten during festivals and celebrations, including weddings and Chinese New Year, and is symbolic offamily unity and harmony. Happy Year of the Tiger! 2 cups glutinous rice flour, (such as Koda Farms Mochiko Blue StarBrand Sweet Rice Flour), plus more for dusting⅓ to ½…

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Yuba Rolls with Koda Kokuho Rose Rice

From Koda Farms, a Family History in Rice by Elizabeth Linhart Money     This recipe, published in Edible East Bay Spring 2009, was included in Elizabeth Linhart Money’s Spring 2010 article, Koda Farms: A Family History in Rice. The recipe was created by the test kitchen at Hodo Foods in Oakland. Hodo means “good bean” in…

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Stir-Fried Beef with Mustard Greens

Adapted from The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook by Patricia Tanumihardja 1 pound flank steak or top sirloin 1 plump stalk lemongrass trimmed, bruised, and halved crosswise 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut lengthwise into 6 slices 1½ teaspoons salt 8 ounces Asian mustard greens, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (6…

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Clay Pot Lemongrass-Steamed Fish (Pla Nueng Morh Din)

Adapted from The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook by Patricia Tanumihardja Steaming whole fish on a lattice of lemongrass in a clay pot leaves it silky, tender, and imbued with a subtlecitrusy scent. Any white fish with natural fat, such as trout, Pacific cod, or striped bass, would work well in this simple Thai dish from Pranee…

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Contents Spring 2010

CONTENTS SPRING 2010 EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL LOCAL HERO AWARDS 2009 City Slicker Farms Taco Grill Barlovento Chocolates Blue Bottle Coffee Merritt College Landscape Horticulture and Permaculture Design Programs FOOD FOR THOUGHT SUPPLYING LOCAL CHEFS AND SUSTAINING LOCAL RANCHES Biagio Artisan Meats WHAT’S IN SEASON Asian Vegetables Recipes using Asian vegetables from The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook…

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FARM JOURNAL

In Praise of Compost By Thaddeus Barsotti   In my early days of farming I went through a phase of harvesting crops and immediately planting new ones without amending the soil. The results were decreasing yields and declining crop health. It was a good lesson, and helped me understand that the true challenge of organic…

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The Road to Zero

From Farmers Markets to Supermarkets, Rethinking What We Throw Away by Rachel Trachten Covered from head to toe in plastic bags, a hideous creature lumbers slowly through the farmers market in Jack London Square. The monster stops to chat with shoppers, complimenting them on their reusable bags or asking why they haven’t brought any. The…

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Leave No Scrap Behind

  A Tale of Dim Sum story and photos By Mia Buchignani and Melissa Schilling   “The flavor is incredible. It’s just hard to get past the texture”—Shawna   Dim sum. It’s a recessionista’s Champagne brunch fantasy: The flavors and textures of Chinese cookery pair perfectly with sparkling wines, and most dim sum joints in…

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Koda Farms

  Koda Farms: a Family History in Rice By Elizabeth Linhart Money   In late 2003, Martha Stewart told her viewers what Japanese and Japanese Americans already knew: Koda Farms, situated in the dusty heart of California’s Central Valley, produces the best sushi rice on the market. Far from the Asian river deltas where rice…

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

Asian Vegetables By Barbara Kobsar and Cheryl Angelina Koehler | Illustrations by Zina Deretsky   When the popular summer crops, such as corn, beans, and tomatoes are nowhere in sight, our East Bay farmers’ markets are overflowing with leafy greens. Hand-drawn signs that say bok choy, choy sum, gai lan, gai choy, mizuna, or tatsoi indicate…

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SUPPLYING LOCAL CHEFS AND SUSTAINING LOCAL RANCHES

  Biagio Artisan Meats By Rick Mitchell   Chefs like to feed the romantic myth that they personally pluck their eggs fresh from the nest and shake the morning dew from their produce, but in reality busy urban chefs have little opportunity to get out to the market, let alone to the farm. Instead, the…

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Beyond “Museum” Gardens By Jesse Kurtz-Nicholl With so much news coverage of Michelle Obama lately, you would think that gardens are the answer to all of our public health problems. In addition to the “White House” garden, you’ve got the new “People’s Garden” at the USDA building in Washington, DC, and Secretary of Agriculture Vilsack…

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2009 local hero award winners

The results are in. Here are the Edible East Bay faves from our 2009 poll. Local Hero: Farmer/FarmCity Slicker Farmsby Max Cadji In 1943, Americans planted more than 20 million Victory Gardens, growing one-third of all the fresh produce consumed in the U.S. The emerging movement to bring home food production back into the mainstream…

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Editor’s Mixing Bowl

During January, as I was putting together this issue of Edible East Bay, I fell into the habit of taking a daily hike at Oyster Bay Regional Shoreline in San Leandro, a semi-wild peninsula of parkland that was created on landfill right behind the dump at the end of David Street.  The park is a…

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Properly Cooked Brown Rice

From Koda Farms, a Family History in Rice by Elizabeth Linhart Money   Excerpted from The Complete Tassajara Cookbook by Edward Espe Brown, © 2009. Published by arrangement with Shambhala Publications, Inc., Boston. Shambhala.com 1 cup brown rice 2 cups water ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter or oil Rinse and drain the rice, then soak it in the water…

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Seven Stars of Spring

    Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are Jessica’s seven best bets for the spring season. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures…

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Recipes from our Asian Grandmothers

  The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook by Patricia Tanumihardja Photography by Photo by Lara Ferroni Sasquatch Books, Seattle 2009 If this gorgeous cookbook fulfills the author’s quest for extended family, we are all the beneficiaries! The warm-hearted profiles of 10 seasoned cooks add a rich personal history to the recipes. Each of the profiles is displayed…

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Duck Breast with Braised Cabbage

Recipe and photo courtesy of The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards, Livermore Serves 4 2 ounces duck fat 2 onions, thinly sliced 2 ounces bacon, thinly sliced 1 medium white cabbage, thinly sliced 12 juniper berries, chopped 20 black peppercorns, ground 1 sprig of thyme, chopped 1 bottle white wine 4 duck breast halves Heat duck…

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From Forest to Barrel to Bottle

Understanding the Oak to Wine Connection By Kirstin Jackson Oak’s role in winemaking can be difficult to grasp. In one tasting room, a winery employee pouring you a splash of $90 reserve red implies that aging a wine in anything less than new French oak barrels is an offense to the grape, centuries of viticulture,…

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Olive Oil in my Dessert?

Few of us are surprised these days to find a saucer of olive oil instead of butter beside the bread tray on our restaurant table, and we more or less expect the flavor of extra-virgin olive oil to emerge from a good vinaigrette. Some of us even pour good-quality olive oil into our sauté pans,…

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The Olive Groves of Sunol

BY CHERYL ANGELINA KOEHLER As an avid hiker and unabashed forager, I can’t help but spot food while I’m following trails through our spectacular East Bay regional parks. Unfortunately, all the wild and feral edibles out there are forbidden fruit, due to the ban against removing anything from public lands, save the dirt and burrs…

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