July 24, 2014

Farmers and Vintners Come with us from farm to city to places in between! Read below to learn about a celebration of Oakland urban winemaking and another for a long-running farmers’ market. We honor a leader whose AgPark connects farms with urban neighborhoods and offer some good information on opportunities for farmers seeking organic certification. Our book reviews cover the latest titles on sustainable farming.…

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July 11, 2014

Ice Cream Innovators We’re stepping way beyond plain vanilla this month. Come with us down the Rocky Road to the Salted Caramel and on into the Wildberry Lavender. We’ll stop in on Fentons’ 120th anniversary celebration, Berkeley’s new Bootleg Creamery, and Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream (a cookbook) before taking a turn toward cheesemaking (dairy and not)…

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June 27, 2014

On the Road Whether you’re headed far from home or just dreaming of distant shores, you can savor our book reviews featuring foods from afar. And if your vacation is a stay-cation, why not venture out to one of the crop swaps listed below? But before you go anywhere, we hope you’ll help us win…

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Foreign Shores

  Reviews by Kristina Sepetys   If you’re traveling abroad this summer—or if you’re not but would like to imagine you are—here are some cookbooks to guide you!   My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz (Ten Speed Press, 2014) A collection of stories and 100 sweet and savory French-inspired recipes from popular food blogger David…

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Meat: Slaughtering, Butchering, Curing,and Eating Like a Caveman

Reviews by Kristina Sepetys   Butchering Beef: The Comprehensive Photographic Guide to Humane Slaughtering and Butchering by Adam Danforth with foreward by Temple Grandin Butchering Poultry, Rabbit, Lamb, Goat, and Pork: The Comprehensive Photographic Guide to Humane Slaughtering and Butchering by Adam Danforth with foreward by Joel Salatin (Storey, 2014, paperback) In these two instructive…

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June 13, 2014

Hop. Skip. Jump. Get your sneakers on! We’ll hop around in Oakland to the City Slicker Farm tour and the opening of a brand new farmers’ market, then skip across the Carquinez Strait for a food and wine celebration in Suisun Valley. Meat lovers will jump up and down about the book reviews, recipe, and…

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June 4, 2014

Bayfair Center Farmers’ Market Anniversary Celebration The Bayfair Center Farmers’ Market celebrates 20 years serving the San Leandro community on Saturday June 21. All are invited to enjoy tastings from local fruit purveyors, cooking demonstrations and giveaways, activities for kids, as well as more than 40 family farmers selling fresh fruits, vegetables, and baked goods.…

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May 31, 2014

Local Gems Edible Tastings at Berkeley’s Live Oak Park Fair is just around the corner, and here’s a preview to tempt your palate. We invite you to read on for stories about a nursery makeover, two chances to mix and mingle, a panel for those with entrepreneurial spirit, and the local food journalists who won…

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Blogger Cookbooks

  Reviews by Kristina Sepetys   According to Technorati, an Internet search engine for blogs, as of 2012 there were nearly 17,000 food blogs. One can only imagine how many more have debuted in the two years since. If they’re all publishing a recipe a day, that’s nearly seven million recipes per year! Some of…

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May 23, 2014

Farmers Market Blooms at Madera Elementary Students at El Cerrito’s Madera Elementary will host a student-run farmers market on Friday, May 23 from 2:40 to 3:30 pm. The fruits, veggies, and flowers for sale were grown in the school garden, which is partially funded through a partnership with Farmigo, an online system that makes it…

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Fibershed

FIBERSHED Fashion gets a slow-food-style makeover By Jillian Laurel Steinberger Where does our clothing come from and where does it end up? We’ve grown accustomed to asking such questions about our food and our water, but why not about our fabrics and dyes? What if we could get sweaters, jeans, and hats made from locally…

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What’s in Season?

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS Choosing produce harvested at its peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. May Small grow pots of herbs and greens, such as those sold by Mariposa Microgreens, have become a popular item at farmers’ markets. If you have one, you’re happily snipping tender and tasty…

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Lead in your soil?

BY STEVE CALANOG AND BIRGITT EVANS • PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN BY JACK PERTSCHUK Over the years, we have heard many smart, inquisitive gardeners express concern, confusion, and fear about environmental contaminants in their soil. Lead is very often mentioned when talking about gardening. While urban residents may know they should be concerned, rarely do they…

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Sharing the Pie

Local caterers take the boss out of the kitchen BY RACHEL TRACHTEN Whipping up 200 empanadas is all in a day’s work for the women of Fusion Latina. At Richmond’s Artisan Kitchen they’re a synchronized team, chopping zucchini and onions, rolling out dough for tortillas, and slicing poblano peppers. Although the kitchen work is typical…

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The Seven Stars of Summer

  BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at…

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Side Dish ……

TASTING THE EAST BAY A Food Tour Sampler BY SAM TILLIS Food tourism is one of the fastest growing travel trends today, and this is not least the case here in the Bay Area, where numerous companies have sprung up to fill the niche. Curious to see what the fuss was about, I signed up…

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Side Dish ….

THE CAMPUS GROCER Food collective brings healthy fare to campus and community BY ANNA BALASSONE When UC Berkeley proposed bringing a Panda Express onto campus in 2009, a group of students did what Berkeley students do best: They protested. The university rescinded the proposal, and instead of a fast-food chain, the campus community acquired a…

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Side Dish ..

LA COCINA ALUMS LAUNCH EAST BAY BUSINESSES BY SARAH HENRY The incubator kitchen in San Francisco’s Mission District known as La Cocina has garnered well deserved praise for kick starting the culinary careers of many low-income edible entrepreneurs, primarily women of color from immigrant communities. To date, the nonprofit program, which provides technical assistance, business support,…

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Side Dish

ABESHA ETHIOPIAN WELCOMES ALL COMERS BY SARAH HENRY   Shortly after returning from a visit to Ethiopia, fellow food writer Molly Watson walked into Abesha, a restaurant in Oakland’s Temescal neighborhood, sniffed gleefully, ordered the vegetarian combo, and hungrily tucked in. “This tastes like the best food I had in Addis Ababa,” she concluded. That’s…

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Lucky Dog

Hayward Hot Sauce  Gathering Heat By Sarah Henry   It started as a weekend hobby and turned into a hot commodity. So just over a year ago, after seven years of tinkering with recipes at home, former IT and project management man Scott Zalkind ditched the day job in favor of slinging hot sauce at…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

Everything flows and nothing stays fixed. The principle of change as the only constant in the universe, attributed to Greek philosopher Heraclitus of Ephesus, is stock in trade for a journalist. But nevertheless, I can’t help admiring a seeming constant that for over seven years held steady through our editorial process at Edible East Bay.…

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May 9, 2014

Good Deeds, Great Food May is blooming with opportunities to do good by eating well. Read on for tasty ways to support your favorite local organizations, from the Berkeley schools’ Gardening and Cooking Program to the Alameda Point Collaborative’s supportive housing and job training programs. Feast on offerings from generous local restaurants and food stores…

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Contents Summer 2014

EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL SIDE DISH Lucky Dog Hot Sauce Abesha Ethiopian Restaurant La Cocina alums launch East Bay businesses UC Berkeley’s student grocers East Bay food tours SEVEN STARS OF SUMMER FINANCING OAKLAND’S NEW RESTAURANTS CO-OP CATERING BUSINESSES LEAD IN YOUR GARDEN SOIL? FIBERSHED Recipes: Kerrs Dinner to Dye For  WHAT’S IN SEASON    ABOUT…

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Financing Oakland's New Restaurants

  BEHIND THE BOOM The Finances Fueling Oakland’s New Wave of Restaurants By Sarah Henry • Photos by Stacy Ventura Oakland is having a protracted It moment. First came word that the New York Times deemed the “gritty” city one of the 45 places to visit in 2012. Last year, the international press weighed in…

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Cooking with Neighbors and Friends

  By Kristina Sepetys   As the weather warms and we spend more time outside and in our gardens, a chat over the garden fence becomes an impromptu bring-what-you-have dinner around the barbecue. Or a bounty of tender new produce discovered in the garden becomes an excuse to assemble a bowl of fresh-clipped greens and…

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A Hole Bunch of Good Book about Doughnuts!

Reviews by Kristina Sepetys   The Donut: History, Recipes, and Lore from Boston to Berlin by Michael Krondl (Chicago Press Review, 2014, paperback) One of the most recognized and beloved pastry treats, the doughnut dates back over 2000 years and can be found in a variety of jelly-covered, frosting-dipped, and sweetened forms throughout the world.…

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April 25, 2014

Perfect Pairing: Cider and Doughnuts Cider and doughnuts aren’t just for autumn anymore. Craft cider is now a fashionable beverage, and doughnuts have gotten a makeover as well. With the arrival of the Cider Summit in Berkeley this week we went looking for the best local doughnuts, and surprise, surprise! They’re in Temescal! So let’s join…

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APRIL 5, 2014

    THE RODGERS RANCH URBAN FARM EXPO & PLANT SALE April 5, 2014 10am – 4pm Rodgers Ranch, 315 Cortsen Road, Pleasant Hill Free Admission Find out more at https://rodgersranchurbanfarm.org Plants •  Mini Classes • Tours 25+ vendors and educators offering everything from heirloom tomato plants to tools, to compost, and lots of advice.  Some…

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March 27, 2014

Spring Planting Before you dig in to your own garden, cast your vote for Planting Justice!   Cast your vote for edible gardens! Edible East Bay has nominated the Oakland-based nonprofit Planting Justice for a grant of $500 through the Edible Feast Cover Contest. To win, we need our readers to vote by sharing our…

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Cheese and Wine Book Reviews

Good reading to go with your wine and cheese! By Kristina Sepetys   The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonné (Ten Speed Press, 2013). On many favorites lists for 2013, this book by Bonné, the much-respected wine editor at the San Francisco Chronicle,…

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March 13, 2014

 Great opportunities coming up to satisfy your wine and cheese cravings: Grab Your Passport and Explore the East Bay Urban Wine Scene East Bay Vintners Alliance 6th Annual Passport Event Saturday March 15 and Sunday March 16 By Christy White “Love Your East Bay Vintner” was the theme when media got a sneak peek at the…

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Root to Stalk Cooking

Root to Stalk Cooking: The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable by Tara Duggan (Ten Speed Press, 2013) Produce from the farmers’ market, a CSA, or your garden is usually so much more lush and bountiful than what you find at big supermarkets. Freshly cut or dug with full, robust greens, firm stalks, and long,…

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Real Food Fermentation

Real Food Fermentation: Preserving Whole Fresh Food with Live Cultures in Your Home Kitchen by Alex Lewin (Quarry Books, 2012) Real Food Fermentation is a helpful primer for beginners, offering practical skills for making cultured foods. Through step-by-step photographs, Lewin explains everything you need to know about the fermenting process, including how to choose the right tools…

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Put 'em Up!

Put ‘em Up! (Storey Publishing, 2010) and Put ‘em Up! Fruit (Storey Publishing, 2013) By Sherri Brooks Vinton Farmers and home gardeners are currently resting their hoes for a moment as they come up with strategies for putting up all the delicious late-season fruits and vegetables to hold on to those summer delights as long as possible.…

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South Italian Desserts

Southern Italian Desserts by Rosetta Costantino (Ten Speed Press, 2013) Review by Kristina Sepetys If you like your olive oil baked into delicious sweets of the Italian variety, grab a copy of the beautiful new cookbook, Southern Italian Desserts, by Rosetta Costantino. The 76 recipes from Costantino’s homeland in the very southern region of Italy…

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Edible Art Show

Art and food are close partners at Edible East Bay, but we’re snuggling up even closer at our art show next weekend. Please join us!     Opening reception Sunday March 9, 1–4pm Women’s Cancer Resource Center 5741 Telegraph Ave, Oakland Celebrate eight and a half beautiful years of Edible East Bay with some of the artists whose…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

On a late January day, when heavy fog and drizzle inspired longing for the wet winters of years past, I called up Alexis Koefoed at Soul Food Farm in Vacaville to see if the Facebook chatter about a ceremony on her farm to invoke the rain gods had some basis. “It started off tongue in…

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Contents

On the Cover: The photo on this season’s cover shows drone honeybees outside a queen-breeding hive. The triangle is a symbol that the queen bee uses to identify her home after she has mated. Inside the hive, she is being protected by worker bees as she lays her eggs. The screen is for hive ventilation.…

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Seven Stars of Spring

BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com.…

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Feeding Forward

  CURBING HUNGER There’s an App for That By Sarah Henry Photo by Naomi Fiss Bay Area internet startups are increasingly turning to technology to tackle social challenges, like homelessness and hunger, with the click of a mouse. Case in point: Feeding Forward, an online and mobile interface aimed at preventing restaurant waste and feeding…

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Beyond Salt and Pepper

Oaktown Spice Shop By Sarah Henry Photos by Robin Jolin It took a man from Milwaukee, who started selling spices at age 16 at the renowned Spice House there, to spot a niche need in the Bay Area food scene and fill it. But John Beaver wasn’t expecting to become a spice merchant when his…

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Bonita Fish Market

Something Refreshingly Fishy in Central Berkeley By Sarah Henry • Photos by Robin Jolin Phat Vo, 50, who lives in Berkeley, has been an old-school, rod-and-reel, small-boat fisherman for more than 30 years, selling his local catch to stores like Monterey Fish Market and Berkeley Bowl, where he’s also worked as a fishmonger. “There’s nowhere I’d…

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HEAT Hot Sauce Shop

Some Like It Hot By Sarah Henry • Photos by Naomi Fiss Siriracha shortage? Don’t sweat it. There are plenty of other hot condiments to choose from at HEAT Hot Sauce Shop in Berkeley. At this year-old store, fans of blistering heat in a bottle can choose from more than 300 varieties of sizzling seasoning designed for those…

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Morell’s Bread

Berkeley Baker Finds a Kitchen Close to Home By Sarah Henry • Photos by Robin Jolin For more than 10 years, Eduardo Morell’s breads—a favorite at the Berkeley Farmers’ Market—have had a commute: 35 minutes from the Headlands Center for the Arts near Sausalito, where Morell spent two 16-hour days each week baking his breads in a…

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Food Forays in Fremont

Like many who dwell in the northern reaches of Alameda County, I can go for months on end without giving much thought to the south-county city of Fremont. If I do call up a vision, it’s of the endless subdivisions and strip malls that replaced former farms and vineyards when the region became a bedroom…

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What's in Season?

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. February Year round farmers’ markets welcome the first flush of local asparagus in February, as plump spears arrive from near-by…

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A Hive in Your Backyard

Each year, hundreds of people in the East Bay take the bold step of establishing a beehive or two in their backyard for the first time. Their motivation is often a desire to help honey bee populations while promoting greater yields of garden fruits and vegetables from the extra pollination. They also enjoy having the…

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Plight of the Humble Bee

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS This article grew out of a conversation between Helen Krayenhoff, Edible East Bay’s garden editor and co-owner of Kassenhoff Growers, and Laura Ward, a volunteer research assistant for Professor Gordon Frankie at the UC Berkeley Urban Bee Lab (helpabee.org and The Urban Bee Lab on Facebook). Laura helps with the lab’s…

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Rethinking Money

  A Berkeley mom shakes up the notion of business as usual by Rachel Trachten  •  Photos by Nicki Rosario   “Step away from the system. Trade.” This Facebook message, posted by South Berkeley mom YaVette Holts, reveals her mission to rethink the dollar. Holts heads up three projects that challenge attitudes about money and…

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Year of the Horse

Hop on for a trot through some fun reading below: Horse Power Helps this Farm Grow It’s CSA Sign-Up Time at Live Power Farm In this year of the horse, we want to celebrate the work of Stephen and Gloria Decater at their Live Power Community Farm in Mendocino County. Under the tutelage of organic farming…

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The Art of Fermentation

The Art of Fermentation: An In-Depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes from Around the World by Sandor Ellix Katz (Chelsea Green, 2012) In his latest publishing effort, Katz outdoes the huge scope of his previous book by bringing us nearly 500 pages covering the history, concepts, and processes related to fermentation. You’ll find more narrative than…

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Preserving Wild Foods

Preserving Wild Foods: A Modern Forager’s Recipes for Curing, Canning, Smoking, and Pickling by Matthew Weingarten and Raquel Pelzel (Storey Publishing, 2012) Matthew Weingarten and Raquel Pelzel’s captivating book is focused on preserving wild ingredients foraged from the sea, fields, forests, fresh water, and even urban landscapes, so it covers more than just fermentation techniques. Inspired…

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Mastering Fermentation

Mastering Fermentation: Recipes for Making and Cooking with Fermented Foods by Mary Karlin (Ten Speed Press, 2013) This beautifully photographed guide offers more than 70 recipes covering a wide variety of lacto-fermented foods. You’ll be enticed by such concoctions as Plum-Raisin Mustard, Wild and Creamy Muenster Cheese, Worcestershire Sauce, Pickled Sardines with Fennel, and Ginger Mint Shrub.…

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Wild Fermentation

Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods by Sandor Ellix Katz (Chelsea Green, 2003) When “fermentation revivalist” Sandor Katz’s Wild Fermentationwas published in 2003, it was described as “the only comprehensive recipe book of fermented and live-culture cuisine” on the market. While no longer alone on the shelf, this book, with its easy-to-follow instructions,…

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Urban Farming

Thinking of getting chickens or spiffing up your backyard mini-farm? Here are some tidbits to feed your inner farmer! Gather and Grow 34th Annual EcoFarm Conference Asilomar Conference Grounds, Pacific Grove January 22-25 The EcoFarm Conference is just around the corner! You might think of it as a good food boot camp but much more…

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Holiday Comforts

Have gift shopping and entertaining gotten the better of you? Here are some ideas for dialing it down.   Mimi’s Holiday Survival Guide By Melissa Schilling The Hostess Gift: Let some other Jane Doe opt for a boring vanilla candle. Go for power flavor and bring your party hosts some serious local tang. PICKLES! Or…

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LAST BITE

I still remember the day when I first was struck by winter’s poetry in the sublime beauty of the persimmon tree. The leaves had fallen from the tree, revealing the dark orange orbs of ripe fruit still hanging on the bare branches. Soon after, I planted a Hachiya persimmon tree in my office garden in…

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Finding the Local Treasures

East Bay Appetizer December 4, 2013 Here are some places to find gifts and holiday entertainment of the most delicious home-grown sorts. Our local artisans, crafters, and performers help make the Bay Area an exciting place to live, so be sure to support them with your holiday shopping dollars! ˜ A Seasonal Feast At the…

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East Bay Appetizer November 22, 2013

Our Fabulous Female Chefs! When the print version of Edible East Bay’s Winter Holidays 2013 issue hit the streets last week, there was already quite a buzz surrounding our article on Oakland’s new wave of female chefs, which we released early online. If you haven’t had a chance to read it yet, the first item…

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About the Artist

  Melissa Garden (yes, that really is her name,) is a sixth generation California native and Oakland resident, with degrees in illustration from the California College of Arts (& Crafts) and UC Santa Cruz. The core strength of Melissa’s work is her ability to skillfully translate the natural world’s diverse beauty and oddity, her subjects…

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Michelle Lee’s Red Wine Poached Pears

From Any Females in the House? “This is one of my favorite applications for pears throughout the winter. I often serve it with buttermilk panna cotta or with a slice of walnut-honey tart.” —Michelle Lee     3 pounds firm pears (bosc and bartlett work really well) 2 tablespoons peppercorns 1 teaspoon whole clove Seeds from…

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More mushroom recipes

Wild Mushroom Pizza By Toby Garrone of Far West Fungi 1 teaspoon olive oil Pizza dough (use pre-made or make your own) 1 tablespoon butter 1 pound assorted fresh wild mushrooms, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 1 teaspoon dried thyme Salt and pepper to taste 1 8-ounce package cream cheese 4 ounces fontina cheese, shredded 1…

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What’s in Season

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY DAWLINE ONI-ESELEH When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Kiwifruit, those fuzzy little fruits with the big flavor and great nutritional value, are ripe and ready. Cut and…

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PieTisserie

A Random Act of Sweetness Launches Pie Lady BY SARAH HENRY •  PHOTOS BY ROBIN JOLIN In February 2010, Jaynelle St. Jean found herself in a funk. Having traveled cross-country after a relationship break up, she’d just moved back in with her mom in San Francisco and was sleeping on the couch. She didn’t have…

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Bar Dogwood and Stag’s Lunchette

Winning combo in the Heart of Oakland BY SARAH HENRY • PHOTOS BY NICKI ROSARIO Alexeis (Lexi) Filipello knows how to craft a killer sandwich. Feeding folks in the center of Oakland from sun up to sun down, the owner of Stag’s Lunchette and Bar Dogwood stuffs her signature sammies with local, seasonal, and sustainable ingredients…

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Seven Stars of Winter

   BY JESSICA PRENTICE LINE DRAWINGS BY SARAH KLEIN • COLORING BY MAGGIE GOSSELIN Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the…

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CHOLITA LINDA

From Farmers’ Market Favorite to Brick-and-Mortar Business BY SARAH HENRY • PHOTOS BY MELISA SOZERI Oakland local Vanessa Chavez, 32, grew up eating fresh, flavorful, often homegrown food in a multigenerational family of multicultural heritage who valued mealtimes. “A meal was an experience, something to come together and share, and the food was the main event,”…

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City Girl Farm store

Abeni Ramsey moves her mission from Farm to Fork BY SARAH HENRY • PHOTOS BY NICKI ROSARIO Abeni Ramsey (some may know her as Abeni Massey) has attracted national attention for her local urban farming efforts. They began eight years ago when, with the help of City Slicker Farms, Ramsey, who was on food stamps at…

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Editor's Mixing Bowl

It’s coming on Thanksgiving as I’m writing this, so it seems appropriate to take the occasion to reflect on things I’m thankful for. The list is long, and at the top, of course, are all the beautiful and loving people (and dogs) in my life, past and present. Then there’s good health, the astounding beauty…

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Who eats mushrooms?

CHEF SETH PETERSON’S HUITLACOCHE FILLING for tacos, quesadillas, tortas, enchiladas, tamales, etc. Seth Peterson, a second-generation urban gardener living in the heart of Berkeley, has worked as a chef at Berkeley’s Three Stone Hearth and teaches at the Institute for Urban Homesteading. Says Seth, “Huitlacoche [corn smut] is called the Mexican truffle because of its…

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More revelations of the mushroom people

Norm Andresen’s Mushroom Finder Wondering which edible mushrooms are found here in Central and Northern California? Says MSSF foray coordinator Norm Andresen, “That depends on the forest and the season. On a morel hunt, one looks for morels but might instead find Gyromitras, boletes, or false morels. Oaks are an excellent mushroom producing tree, so…

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The Hidden Kingdom of the Blobs

  Revelations from the mushroom people BY JILLIAN STEINBERGER Imagine a subject that branches off in a dendritic pattern, infinitely multiplying and spreading with no beginning, middle, or end. It suggests many connected and intertwined topics, each with endless utopian potential for food, medicine, farming, gardening, ecological vitality, and yet-to-be-discovered uses. Even the Defense Department…

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Made by Hand

Gifts from Very Close to Home BY HELEN KRAYENHOFF ILLUSTRATIONS BY DAVID BALL Homemade gifts come with an extra dose of love. Source your ingredients locally and you’ll be loving the planet too! Custom Teas from Homestead Apothecary Amble down near the end of Oakland’s charming Temescal Alley, open the door to Homestead Apothecary, and…

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Feast of the Seven Fishes

  The Trend and the Tradition By Cheryl Angelina Koehler | Illustrations by Iris Gottlieb  “Food trends start here,” a friend with a deep knowledge of San Francisco Bay Area food culture once said. But in a recent conversation, we came up with at least one trend that seems to have started on the East…

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Stuffed Calamari with Celery, Raisins, and Pine Nuts

From The Feast of Seven Fishes  This simple and satisfying calamari dish, courtesy of Rocky Maselli, executive chef at A16 Rockridge, works as an antipasto or as a main course.    Yields 6 servings 12 calamari, cleaned and tentacles cut away to use separately ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic,…

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Salt-Cured Ahi Tuna Tataki

From  The Feast of Seven Fishes  Recipe by Chef Rick Hackett of Bocanova Look for this appetizer on Bocanova’s Christmas Eve Feast of the Seven Fishes menu. Chef Hackett says to sear the tuna in a light flavorless oil such as grape seed oil, so as not to detract from the flavor of the salt-cure…

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Bucatini with Dungeness Crab

From The Feast of Seven Fishes  This amazingly rich and luxurious pasta dish comes from Rocky Maselli, executive chef at A16 Rockridge. It’s simple to prepare and offers a great way to showcase Dungeness crab. Chef Maselli says that if you take the time to buy whole crabs and clean them yourself, you can collect the…

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Contents WINTER HOLIDAYS 2013

EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL SIDE DISH Cholita Linda PieTisserie Abeni Ramsey’s new projects Bar Dogwood and Stag’s Lunchette FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES MADE BY HAND Gifts from very close to home ANY FEMALES IN THE HOUSE? Oakland’s new wave of top women chefs Recipe: Michelle Lee’s Red Wine Poached Pears THE HIDDEN KINGDOM OF THE…

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Any Females in the House?

Top, left to right: Sarah Kirnon, chef/owner of Miss Ollie’s; Dominica Rice, chef/owner of Cosecha; Tanya Holland, chef/owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen and B-Side BBQ. Bottom, left to right: Julya Shin, chef de cuisine at Pizzaiolo; Kim Alter, formerly executive chef at Haven and now at Plum; and Preeti Mistry of Juhu Beach Club, who…

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East Bay Appetizer November 7, 2013

Autumn Celebration  We’re busy at work on Edible East Bay Winter Holidays 2013 (the print magazine) which should be on the streets shortly after November 15. Meanwhile, here are some fun things to do now.   First Annual Novemberfest in the Temescal Alleys Sunday November 10, noon–4pm In the block bounded by Telegraph Ave,Clarke St,…

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East Bay Appetizer October 24, 2013

The 2013 Olive Harvest Is Here! In this issue of East Bay Appetizer, we celebrate the start of the California olive harvest. This oleaginous fruit has been central to Mediterranean cuisine since antiquity and is now becoming important in California as well. Here’s a bin full of opportunities to taste, cook, learn, harvest, preserve, mill,…

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East Bay Appetizer • October 10, 2013

DIY (Do It Yourself) might just be the acronym of the decade, and at Edible East Bay we’re happy to promote the enjoyment of creativity in every way! Here are some great opportunities to learn about growing and producing your own food and engaging with your creative spirit. Remember to spread the word and encourage…

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Pan-Fried Oysters

From Seven Stars of Winter by Jessica Prentice   Oysters are best freshly fried, so this easy-to-prepare recipe is perfect for an informal gathering where you can cook, serve, and eat all at once. While it’s often recommended to coat all the oysters in the batter before heating the fat and starting to fry, I…

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East Bay Appetizer September 25, 2013

Live-culture fermentation is one of the hottest food topics of late. It’s both a fun, delicious adventure in home cooking and a way to maximize our health through what we eat. Here are a few tips and tidbits on the subject from your friends at Edible East Bay! Remember to spread the word and encourage…

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California Rare Fruit

TANGENTIAL JOURNEY On a spiral with the California Rare Fruit Growers By Jillian Steinberger Illustrations by Elizabeth Hubbell “The yield of a system is theoretically unlimited, or limited only by the information and imagination of the designer.” —Bill Mollison Unaided by scientists, the universe has bequeathed upon humans a tremendous diversity of fruits, many more…

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Seven Stars of Winter

BY JESSICA PRENTICE  Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s winter favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com.…

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CURDS

Cheese, Interrupted By Kirstin Jackson Try my curds, they’re fresh and squeaky,” said Dunbarton Blue’s cheese maker Chris Roelli with a smile as sweet as the chocolate-coated Udderfinger toffees sold at every Wisconsin gas station. If the acres of corn fields, the cows loitering in front of red barns, or the limburger bricks on grocery…

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East Bay Appetizer • September 13, 2013

Summer may be just about over, but as the good weather lingers here in the Bay Area, it’s a good time to get out for a visit with farmers from near and far, shop at your local farmers market, and cook up some vegetables from root to shoot. Special note: This issue marks the addition…

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East Bay Appetizer • August 29, 2013

This week, we’re celebrating our heritage of good food plants, especially heirlooms and anything growing in our own gardens. Each of the past two years, since the National Heirloom Exposition began, Edible East Bay’s art and garden editor, Helen Krayenhoff, has come home from the event in Santa Rosa absolutely delighted. “I plan on going again this year. Worth the drive,” she…

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AVOCADO HOMELANDS

BY JILLIAN STEINBERGER Crisantos Lopez works at East Bay Wilds, a native plant nursery in Oakland’s Fruitvale district, and he lives nearby with his wife and two sons, and a daughter. His family owns a rancho in the town of Ario de Rosales in the state of Michoacán, Mexico. There they have six horses, 20…

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AVOCADO GROWING GUIDE

BASIC INFORMATION YOU SHOULD KNOW BY JILLIAN STEINBERGER There are three landraces of avocados. The Guatemalan types have the highest oil content and thick, pebbly skin. Their fruit may sit on the tree for up to a year and a half before maturation. The Mexican types are the most cold tolerant. They have thin skin,…

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SYNERGY, SHARING AND RESCUES

By Jillian Steinberger SYNERGY, AVOCADOS AND THREE LADY LANDSCAPERS When Heather Brady DeQuincy moved to San Leandro, she discovered two huge fruitful avocado trees growing around the corner at different houses. She took the writer of this article to see the trees. When they knocked at one of the doors to ask about the trees,…

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. FEBRUARY/MARCH Spinach and Swiss chard continue to enjoy the cooler weather. When bunches of small garnet-red round beets arrive with…

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CHRISTOPHER SHEIN ON AGRICULTURE

PERMANENT AGRICULTURE – PERMANENT CULTURE REVIEW BY HELEN KRAYENHOFF With the publication of The Vegetable Gardener’s Guide to Permaculture: Creating an Edible Ecosystem, the rest of the world will now have access to the gifts of one of our local gardening heroes, Christopher Shein. With the help of Julie Thompson, he has written an accessible…

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COOKED

COOK. REAL FOOD. FROM SCRATCH. REVIEW BY KRISTINA SEPETYS Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation By Michael Pollan The Penguin Press, April 2013 Michael Pollan’s work has profoundly changed the way we think about our industrial food system, the behemoth that produces the foods found in conventional grocery stores and restaurants. But Pollan is not…

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A CROWD SOURCED FOOD ATLAS

      MAPPING MANNA A quest of its own making BY CHERYL ANGELINA KOEHLER Darin Jensen, a cartographer and professor of geography at UC Berkeley, understands the common perception that GIS (geographical information systems) have rendered his profession irrelevant. But all signs are proving to him that it could not be further from the…

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INSPIRING GARDEN DESIGN

ABUNDANT AND BEAUTIFUL REVIEW BY CHERYL ANGELINA KOEHLER You took the “eat local” idea completely to heart, starting a food production garden in your own yard. But it didn’t quite work out as you envisioned. Instead of a lush bed of perky salad greens and grapes tumbling from a trellis, you’re now looking out on…

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A DIFFERENT WAY OF FARMING

BY MIKE MADISON ILLUSTRATIONS BY J. PANTER The Sacramento Valley is an important source of food for the East Bay, and if you travel through the valley, most of what you will see is conventional, industrial farming. Huge fields are planted to a single crop, which is managed with high inputs of fertilizers, pesticides, and…

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COMAL + WATER2TABLE

Chef has a line on the best local, sustainable seafood BY KRISTINA SEPETYS Do you ever wonder where that fish in your fish taco came from and whether it was sustainably harvested? You won’t have to guess at Comal, the stylish restaurant on Shattuck Avenue in downtown Berkeley serving fresh, modern Mexican food and cocktails…

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SEVEN STARS OF SPRING

BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com.…

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MADE FROM SCRATCH

Commercial kitchens with a community focus BY SARAH HENRY | PHOTOS BY NICKI ROSARIO Who doesn’t know someone who has hung his or her shingle out as a jammer, pickler, or baker? This local boom in small-batch food producers means demand for commercial cooking space is at a premium in the East Bay. But the…

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LAST BITE

BAKING THE NEW OLD WAY BY RICHARD FRIEDLANDER ILLUSTRATIONS BY KENDRA CANFIELD In medieval times, there was something called a “needle’s eye”—a door within a larger wooden door, just large enough to allow a human to squeeze through after hours or in times of defense. It made a lot of sense, but it has nothing…

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EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL

In the Bay Area, spring is when Nature wears her richest green clothing, and it’s when farmers’ market shoppers know to look for curious treasures, such as green garlic, fava beans, and rhubarb. This issue feels similarly gifted by the season of fresh, new, and unique, especially so with the artwork we received for these…

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CONTENTS Spring 2013

SPRING 2013 EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL WHAT’S IN SEASON EAST BAY BOOKSHELF Michael Pollan on cooking Inspiring garden design Christopher Shein on permaculture A crowd-sourced food atlas COMAL + WATER2TABLE Chef has a line on the best local, sustainable seafood A DIFFERENT WAY OF FARMING By farmer Mike Madison SEVEN STARS OF SPRING And a pork…

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A GLOSSARY

From Japanese Farm Food Illustrations by Mary Brown   Bocho knife: a general purpose knife, for cutting fish, meat, and vegetables   Yukihira pot: general use saucepan made of hammered aluminum   The heavy-duty cast iron Yamaga Nabe is perfect for cooking and serving soups or noodles. Commonly used in Japan for dishes such as nabeyaki…

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WHAT'S IN SEASON

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. MAY/JUNE Cherries and berries show off their stuff in June. Orchards on the eastern edge of the East Bay and…

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EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL

Illustration by Margo Rivera-Weiss During a recent airing of A Prairie Home Companion, Garrison Keillor quipped: “Pleasure is generic and suffering is individual.” Far be it from me to contradict the “modern-day Mark Twain,” as Keillor is often called, but as images from the films of Les Blank float through my mind, I can’t help…

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SIDE DISH Juhu Beach Club

MISTRY REVEALED By Sarah Henry Photos by Paige Hermreck There’s a new Top Chef in the Temescal, one with a mighty spicy pedigree and a fan base from her days popping up in San Francisco with Mumbai-inspired mobile food—not to mention a following from a certain popular cooking show contest (Season 6, for those who…

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SIDE DISH Living Apothecary

By Sarah Henry Photo by Nicki Rosario Tonic and tasty don’t always belong in the same sentence. But try rolling these around in your mouth:  Cold Pressed Juice Elixir No. 1, a blend of kale, romaine, watermelon, cucumber, apple, and mint.  Vegan Milk No. 2, an almond-cashew combo infused with cacao and enhanced by rose…

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SEVEN STARS OF SUMMER

BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com.…

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A PRODUCE PICKER’S COMPANION

BY HELEN KRAYENHOFF ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS Is it ripe? Is it ready? Will this one taste better than that one? What’s the best way to enjoy it? How do I grow it? Whether you’re in your garden or at the market, there are always these questions . . . Last fall we shared insight on…

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Peko-Peko Japanese Cateriing

The Robust Food of the Izakayas Sylvan Brackett’s Peko-Peko Japanese Catering Photos by Aya Brackett In a tidy, raftered workshop behind his Oakland home, Sylvan Mishima Brackett works a special magic of the Japanese culinary sort. Brackett is the owner of Peko-Peko, a catering company specializing in Japanese izakaya food. Izakayas are like taverns serving…

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A NEW LEAF

Planting Justice creates edible gardens and second chances By Rachel Trachten Unlike the vast majority of men released from San Quentin, Kevin Williams left prison with the promise of a steady job. Williams is one of 10 men who have made the transition from San Quentin to employment through Planting Justice, an Oakland nonprofit that…

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SIDE DISH fuseBOX

MODERN KOREAN FOOD LIGHTS UP WEST OAKLAND By Sarah Henry Photos by Nicki Rosario Sometimes it pays to listen to the females in the house. For years, Korean-born chef Sunhui Chang listened to his wife, theater director Ellen Sebastian Chang, and daughter, SunIm, encouraging him to open a restaurant serving the kind of Korean comfort…

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GARDENER’S BOOKSHELF

CALL IN AN EXPERT Ed Rosenthal’s Protect Your Garden Review by Ann Ralph Oakland’s Ed Rosenthal is a marijuana expert, a grower, researcher, writer, teacher, and activist who stands at the center of a movement to promote the growth and decriminalization of marijuana. As such, he’s had occasion to study and practice gardening principles in…

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SIDE DISH Sweet Bar Bakery

HOW SWEET IT IS By Sarah Henry Photos by Paige Hermreck Innovative new restaurants like Hopscotch, Duende, and Hawker Fare have cemented Uptown Oakland’s growing reputation as a dining destination. But until recently the neighborhood has lacked an everyday place, a heart-and-soul business—like a bakery-café—where people could pop in to pick up a sweet indulgence…

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LAST BITE

REMEMBERING LES BLANK Les Is Still More BY L. JOHN HARRIS When I got the news that Les Blank had passed away on April 7, I was deeply saddened. But not surprised. Word of Les’s inoperable cancer leaked out last fall and everyone who knew him, personally and/or professionally, was shattered. Much-loved Les and his…

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OBENTO!

I love all things Japanese, including My Neighbor Totoro and other Hayao Miyazaki movies; shōjo manga comics; and Aranzi Aronzo’s cute, strange, silly sewing craft books. And, of course, Japanese food. I’ve read Japanese Farm Food by Nancy Singleton Hachisu and have pretty much memorized every recipe. I like her book because it explains ingredients…

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Umami Mart

  Japanese Cooking and Barware Supplies in Oakland’s Popuphood By Kristina Sepetys In 2007, Yoko Kumano was living in Tokyo and Kayoko Akabori in Brooklyn. Friends and former high school classmates in Cupertino, the two wondered if they could do something creative with their shared passion for eating, drinking, and Japanese culture. That’s how they…

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OUT ON THE TOWN

  Here’s a small selection of local spots that offer both the flavor and the atmosphere of casual Japanese dining. Ippuku in downtown Berkeley serves up yakitori made from local, organic meats together with other intriguing small plates like bacon mochi and squid-ink rice. During the daytime, you’ll find handmade soba noodles in more than…

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JAPANESE VEGETABLES IN THE GARDEN

By Helen Krayenhoff Since its founding in Oakland in 1917, the Kitazawa Seed Company has been an important source for commercial and backyard growers interested in raising Asian vegetables. Among the Kitazawa offerings are seeds for many traditional or heirloom Japanese vegetables, including a specific group known as dento yasai, which date back to the…

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Contents Summer 2013

  SUMMER 2013 EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL SIDE DISH Sweet Bar Bakery Juhu Beach Club FuseBOX Living Apothecary GARDENER’S BOOKSHELF Ed Rosenthal’s Protect Your Garden A PRODUCE PICKER’S COMPANION Two market farmers on how to pick the best seasonal produce “IT TAKES A GRANDMOTHER” Saqib Keval’s People’s Kitchen SEVEN STARS OF SUMMER And a strawberry trifle…

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Turnip Greens with Soy Sauce (Kabunoha No Ohitashi)

From Japanese Farm Food Katsuobushi is skipjack tuna (bonito) that’s been dried, fermented, and smoked in a process that can take three to five months. In the kitchen, the dried fish is shaved with a razor-sharp tool and the flakes are used to make stock or flavor vegetables. While packaged, shaved katsuobushi is relatively easy to…

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Seared Bonito with Ginger, Garlic, and Chives (Katsuo No Tataki)

From Japanese Farm Food Reprinted with permission from Japanese Farm Food by Nancy Singleton Hachisu, published in 2012 by Andrews McMeel Publishing. In Japan, bonito (skipjack tuna) season starts in spring with lean, clear-flavored flesh and ends in fall with fatty, darkly flavored (and colored) meat. I love both seasons, but I particularly like to…

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Vegetables Pickled in Rice Bran(Nukazuke)

From The Cultured Pickle Shop which is a chapter of Japanese Farm Food Adapted from Japanese Farm Food Years ago, when Tadaaki and I were first married, we made rice bran pickles (nukazuke). They immediately captivated me. The mildly sour rice bran imparts an unusual tang to the vegetables that is more subtle than the…

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Raw Egg on Hot Rice (Tamago-Kake Gohan)

From our story on Japanese Farm Food by Nancy Singleton Hachisu Andrews McMeel Publishing     Japanese Soul Food For most Japanese, raw eggs over very hot rice with a dash of soy sauce (tamago-kake gohan) is like the American standard eggs on toast. “I was raised on Japanese food,” says Bill Fujimoto, a self-described 66-year-old…

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The Cultured Pickle Shop

  TSUKEMONO The “pickled things” By Kristina Sepetys Pickles with a bowl of rice and miso soup is the “quintessential Japanese meal,” Nancy Singleton Hachisu notes in her book. Like their counterparts everywhere in the world, Japanese farmers, gardeners, and cooks see an overly abundant yield as an opportunity to preserve the harvest so they…

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Japanese Farm Food

From Farm to Table in Rural Japan Nancy Singleton Hachisu, author of Japanese Farm Food, finds inspiration and friendship among East Bay chefs and food artisans By Kristina Sepetys | Illustrations by Mary Brown   Sylvan Brackett cooking with Nancy Singleton Hachisu at her farmhouse kitchen in Japan.  (Photo by Kenji Miura) It’s Monday evening…

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Sunshine, good cheer, and a gorgeous tomato!

August 15, 2013 Celebrate this week’s break in the Bay Area’s foggy weather 
with whatever suits your fancy . . . In this newsletter: Wild Boar Tomato Poster At Edible East Bay, we love luscious tomatoes and gorgeous art about equally, so when they come together, we’re over the top with excitement! Check out this…

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Letter to the Editor

Re: It Takes a Grandmother, an article in the Summer 2013 issue of Edible East Bay June 9, 2013 Dear Ms. Koehler, Thank you for your magazine, it is truly a great gift to the community at large. However, I must say that the referenced article was disturbing.  While I found some of Mr. Keval’s basic…

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Art and some recipes from J. R. NELSON

JAE’S BRINE-CURED GARLIC DILL PICKLES Adapted from Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz 5 pounds (approx.) small or medium cucumbers, all of a similar size (Make sure your cucumbers are fresh. Kirbys are best. Avoid English, Persian, or soft-skinned types.) ⅔ cup pickling salt (Choose one with no additives.) 3 heads garlic, peeled 2–3 dried…

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“IT TAKES A GRANDMOTHER”

Saqib Keval calls the community and the ancestors to the People’s Kitchen Photos by Nicki Rosario Perhaps you have heard legends regarding the challenges of securing reservations at the French Laundry or Chez Panisse? Well, it might be just as hard to book a seat for dinner at the People’s Kitchen of Oakland. The comparison…

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FALL HARVEST RECIPES

From the Institute of Urban Homesteading There’s a common challenge for backyard vegetable gardeners at this time of year: what to do with all that produce! K. Ruby Blume, an avid home gardener with a large and thoroughly planted yard in North Oakland, knows the problem well, but as director of the Institute of Urban…

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A MATCH MADE IN PLEASANTON

NEW LEAF COMMUNITY MARKET AND SUNOL AG PARK BY PATRICIA HAYSE HALLER PHOTOS BY CHERYL ANGELINA KOEHLER Chain supermarkets are not known for local sourcing, but that’s just what’s happening at New Leaf Community Market in Pleasanton. The May 2013 opening of this new store has brought fresh opportunities to nearby farmers, fostering closer relationships…

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ABOUT THOSE FOOLISH HENS

YOUNG FARMERS ON A FOOL’S PATH FIND SOLID FOUNDATION LAID BY OTHERS BY PATRICIA HAYSE HALLER The Fool: Someone who walks his own path and follows his heart despite convention and expectation. The fool travels with vision and wonder, even at the risk of being regarded as naïve or just plain crazy. The fool can represent…

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INVEST IN THE FOOD YOU LOVE

How people are putting their money where their mouth is with Credibles BY RACHEL TRACHTEN PHOTOS BY NICKI ROSARIO Kathy Juarez, a retired high school drama teacher living in Santa Rosa, is a fan of the cheeses from Petaluma’s Weirauch Farm & Creamery. She initially tried them out of loyalty to one of her former…

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SIDE DISH

HODO HOOKS UP WITH CHIPOTLE BY SARAH HENRY PHOTOS BY STACY VENTURA On first glance it seems an unlikely matchup in the kitchen: a small-batch tofu maker in Oakland and the fast-food chain Chipotle Mexican Grill. But Hodo Soy Beanery is championing its relationship with this casual restaurant empire, which chose Hodo’s tofu for a…

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SIDE DISH

CAN OYSTERS COME BACK TO THE BAY? BY SARAH HENRY ILLUSTRATIONS BY SARAH HODGSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW WHITMORE Christopher Lim is on a mission to educate eaters about the connection between the health of the planet and what’s on our plate. For him, it’s all about oysters, those sea-kissed, succulent shellfish whose sustainability standing makes…

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EDITOR'S MIXING BOWL

Ganesha, remover of obstacles, has been hovering around the Edible East Bay mobile office throughout the summer. I believe he arrived in April, but it was not until late June that I was certain of his beneficent presence. Contributors Jillian Steinberger (Homemade Food Act ) and K. Ruby Blume (Fall Harvest Recipes) can attest to the…

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RICHMOND RENAISSANCE

Food and farming efforts offer renewed hope to the community BY SARAH HENRY If only Richmond could overcome its reputation. Long viewed as one of the most violent places in the U.S., the gritty city saw its murder rate plummet in 2012. Still, this beleaguered community of some 103,000 reports unemployment hovering around 13 percent.…

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Contents Fall Harvest 2013

FALL HARVEST 2013 RECIPES FROM J. R. NELSON EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL FALL HARVEST RECIPES From the Institute of Urban Homesteading SIDE DISH Hodo hooks up with Chipotle Can oysters come back to the bay? A MATCH MADE IN PLEASANTON New Leaf Community Market and the Sunol Ag Park ABOUT THOSE FOOLISH HENS TODAY’S SPECIAL Hitting…

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THE CALIFORNIA HOMEMADE FOOD ACT

Super slow food: the pros and cons of AB1616 BY JILLIAN LAUREL STEINBERGER ILLUSTRATIONS BY HELEN KRAYENHOFF Tiny is beautiful. You may have seen those efficient new tiny cars out on the road and read about tiny houses, 100 square feet where owners choose to live simply. Now, welcome to the new-old super-micro slow-food economy,…

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Today’s Special

Hitting the Bull’s-Eye at Bull Valley Roadhouse BY SARAH HENRY | PHOTOS BY STACY VENTURA   Lots of Bay Area folks have never heard of Port Costa and have no clue how to get to this sleepy little northern Contra Costa County community or even where to find it on a map. Hint: Look on…

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TODAY’S SPECIAL

  HITTING THE BULL’S-EYE AT BULL VALLEY ROADHOUSE BY SARAH HENRY PHOTOS BY STACY VENTURA Lots of Bay Area folks have never heard of Port Costa and have no clue how to get to this sleepy little northern Contra Costa County community or even where to find it on a map. Hint: Look on the…

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WHAT’S IN SEASON?

BY BARBARA KOBSAR ILLUSTRATION BY MARGO RIVERA-WEISS When you’re at the farmers’ market, it’s all about what’s in season. Choosing from items harvested at their peak is your sure bet for fabulous flavor and freshness. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Summer crops linger as midsummer fog backs off and our hot and sunny season arrives. It’s harvest time for…

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SEVEN STARS OF THE FALL HARVEST

BY JESSICA PRENTICE Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s seasonal favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the group’s other ventures at localfoodswheel.com…

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Meet Artist Gary Handman

Sometime in the summer of 2013, a large envelope arrived at the Edible East Bay mailbox. Inside were three items, all hand-painted on watercolor paper… Gary wanted us to know about some of under-the radar places in Richmond, Berkeley, and Oakland where he and his wife, Pam, like to eat and shop.      …

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Farmers Markets

  EBT: Electronic Benefit Transfer is an electronic system for the Food Stamp Program. WIC: The Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children serves to safeguard the health of low-income women, infants, and children up to age 5 who are at nutritional risk by providing nutritious foods to supplement their diet. MM: Market…

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Our Advertisers

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Seven Stars of Winter

Seven Stars of Winter by jessica prentice   Jessica Prentice, Maggie Gosselin, and Sarah Klein created the Local Foods Wheel to help us all enjoy the freshest, tastiest, and most ecologically sound food choices month by month. Here are seven of Jessica’s winter favorites. You can learn more about the Local Foods Wheel and the…

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What’s in Season

Winter Greens By Barbara Kobsar | Illustrations by Helen Krayenhoff Cool winter months bring out a hardy group of green-leafed vegetables that are stars in the nutrition department, and their robust bite-you-back flavors are just what we need to liven up soups, stews, and sautéed dishes. Some of these greens, such as kale and collards, are…

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Editors Mixing Bowl

Editor’s Mixing Bowl In case you have not yet noticed, you have in your hands one totally fruity issue of Edible East Bay. Persimmons, cacao, olives, and a host of rare fruits make appearances on these pages. And since there’s never enough of a good thing during the celebratory season, I’ve added one more: the little apple-like…

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Avocado Cacao Custard

From the East Bay Avocado This avocado-based cacao-carob custard is by Chef Lisa Books-Williams, who has been sharing the joys of plant-based eating since 2005. Serves 3–4 1⅓ cups unsweetened hemp, almond, or rice milk ⅔ cup agave or coconut nectar ½ cup cacao powder ½ cup carob powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon cinnamon…

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Avocado Lime Mousse

From the East Bay Avocado This appealing avocado-based lime mousse is by Chef Lisa Books-Williams, who has been sharing the joys of plant-based eating since 2005. Serves 2 1 large avocado Juice from 1 lime Zest from ½ lime 2½–3 tablespoons agave nectar 1 tablespoon coconut butter or coconut oil (melted) ½ teaspoon vanilla ⅛ teaspoon…

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The East Bay Avocado

INVISIBLE NO LONGER Story and photos by Jillian Laurel Steinberger | Illustrations by Mary Brown The East Bay produces a cornucopia of tree fruits that we love to eat, such as apples, figs, and plums. But what about our beloved avocado (Persea americana)? Hearing reports of avocado trees growing quietly among us, I followed clues…

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Ceviche with Avocado and Preserved Lemon

From the East Bay Avocado Back in 2013 when she gave us this inventive ceviche recipe, Caterina Rindi was busy turning excess backyard lemons from neighbors’ yards into preserved items, which she traded and sold at popup markets. Caterina is one of the founders of Shareable.net, an online magazine that covers the people and projects bringing…

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Guacamole with Preserved Lemon

From the East Bay Avocado Back in 2013 when she gave us this recipe, Caterina Rindi was busy turning excess produce from neighbors’ yards into preserved items, which she traded and sold at popup markets. Caterina is one of the founders of Shareable.net, an online magazine that covers the people and projects bringing a shareable world to life. …

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Avocado “Crème Fraîche”

From The East Bay Avocado by Jillian Steinberger   This clever topping comes from Heather Haxo Phillips, an Iyengar yoga instructor and former owner of Raw Bay Area, through which she inspired and educated people about the power of raw food. Use this “crème fraîche” as a topping for tacos or enchiladas. She also suggests…

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Heather’s Cream of Zucchini and Avocado Soup

From the East Bay Avocado This creamy soup comes from Heather Haxo Phillips, an Iyengar yoga instructor and former owner of Raw Bay Area, through which she inspired and educated people about the power of raw food. This soup is delicious served chilled or at room temperature, but for a cold day, you can heat…

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Avocado Ranch Dressing

From the East Bay Avocado For many years, Chef Lacey Sher’s Encuentro Cafe and Wine Bar was a favorite hangout for those seeking elevated plant-based cuisine in Oakland. She used avocados to give this thick creamy stand-in for ranch dressing its body. She recommends it as a dipping sauce for asparagus or steamed artichoke leaves.…

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The Making of a California Olive Oil Culture

THE MAKING OF A CALIFORNIA OLIVE OIL CULTURE BY CHERYL ANGELINA KOEHLER WITH KAREN YENCICH “Here in California, we are at the beginning of a serious olive oil culture.” —Pablo Voitzuk, olive miller and expert olive oil taster There’s a new devotion growing in many local restaurant kitchens these days. The inamorata is the golden-green…

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Amy Murray’s Olive Oil Crackers

  From our Winter 2012 article,  The Making of an Olive Oil Culture In 2009, Chef Amy Murray hosted an all-olive-oil dinner at her Venus Restaurant in Berkeley for her Slow Food chapter. The crowd of more than 50 sat down to a first course of olive oil crackers with fresh cheese marinated in olive…

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Gifts for the Season

      Story by Helen Krayenhoff Illustrations and Lettering by Elizabeth Hubbell Just walking into Oaktown Spice Shop and breathing in is apt to trigger some memory from your past. The cacophony of scents and the pleasing decor will slowly reveal themselves as you return to a very pleasant present. Although only a year old, the…

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Contents: Winter 2012

  EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL WHAT’S IN SEASON Winter Greens BATE, BATE, CHOCOLATE! Rediscovering Hot Chocolate GIFTS FOR THE SEASON Ideas for Keeping it Local TANGENTIAL JOURNEY On a Spiral with the California Rare Fruit Growers CURDS Cheese Interrupted SEVEN STARS OF THE WINTER HARVEST Favorite foods and recipes from Jessica Prentice THE MAKING OF A…

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Rediscovering Hot Chocolate

¡Bate, Bate, Chocolate! Rediscovering Hot Chocolate STORY AND PHOTOS BY KRISTINA SEPETYS Pronounced: báh-teh, báh-teh, chó-co-lá-te, the headline comes from a Mexican children’s song  ¡Bate, bate, chocolate!                    Stir, stir, chocolate, tu nariz de cacahuate.                    your nose is…

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Firefighters' Weekend at Fenton's Creamery

Larry Hendricks, founder of Oakland Firefighters’ Random Acts Fenton’s Creamery and Restaurant has a deep commitment to community involvement.  During the entire month of November the family owned and operated retro soda fountain is raising funds for the Oakland Firefighters’ Random Acts of Kindness charity program through the sales of their Myrtle’s Creation Sundaes. The…

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Roasted Tomatoes

From Kassenhoff Growers, www.kassenhoffgrowers.com September at Kassenhoff Growers often means abundant tomatoes. This is how we keep them for future use in cooking. Preheat oven to 450° Sprinkle a pan with salt and pepper to taste. Cover bottom with some sprigs of fresh thyme. (We use our English thyme from the garden, but you could…

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Grilled Watermelon Salad

From Lucero Olive Oil, www.lucerooliveoil.com Serves 6–8 1 medium-size watermelon ⅓ cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (Try Lucero Arbequina, Miller’s Blend, or Ascolano) 4 cups baby arugula ¼ cup crumbled goat cheese 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (try Lucero Traditional) Cut watermelon into ½-inch spears. Place in a bowl and toss with ⅓ cup…

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Butternut Squash, Pear, and Leek soup

From Hillcrest Ranch Sunol, www.hillcrestrancholiveoil.com Serves 4 1 medium-size (about 2 pounds) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 large or 2 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, washed and cut in 1-inch pieces 2–3 ripe pears or apples, peeled (optional), cored, and cut in 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive…

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Budín de Zanahoria (Mexican Carrot Custard)

This rich vegetable pudding combines sweet, savory, and tangy with a creamy texture that kids love. (My 3½-year-old gobbles it up!) And it works with many different harvest-season vegetables. You might want to make budín de camote (sweet potato), budín de maíz (fresh corn), or budín de calabaza (squash or pumpkin), depending on what you have handy.…

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Anthony Keels’ Yellow Doll Cocktail

¾ ounce Yellow Doll Watermelon Syrup (made with 2 parts Yellow Doll watermelon juice and 3 parts simple syrup) 1¼ ounce CapRock gin ½ ounce St-Germain elderflower liqueur ¼ ounce lemon juice ¼ ounce lime juice Sparkling wine (your driest)  Place all ingredients except the sparkling wine in a shaker with ice. Shake and then…

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Locavore Mayonnaise

When I make this mayonnaise, which is frequently, I rarely measure. I just start with one egg yolk and do everything to taste and to texture (or until my arm gets tired). 1 egg yolk (I always use eggs from pastured chickens) ½ cup local olive oil ½ teaspoon prepared mustard (or make your own…

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Cream of Celery Root Soup with Leeks and Lard

From Seven Stars of the Fall/Winter Season by Jessica Prentice A homely vegetable, celery root is like a handsome prince trapped inside a frog. Cut away the gnarly outer layers, and you’ll find flesh inside that can be starchy like a potato, sweet like a carrot, and savory like celery, all at once. Delicious roasted…

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Peter Piper’s Kraut

Culturing vegetables like cabbage with salt produces lactic acid and lots of beneficial bacteria, creating a probiotic health food that can improve digestion and build immunity. While krauts can be made in almost any vessel, I prefer to use a specially designed German sauerkraut crock made by Harsch. It comes with fitted stones that weigh…

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Ruby’s Lavender Mead Rabbit Stew

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil 1 whole rabbit 2–4 cups mead or white wine 2–4 cups water or stock ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes 1–2 heads garlic (peel and use as individual cloves or leave whole and unpeeled) Lavender, fresh or dried (Fresh lavender can be tied in a bundle. Dried lavender should be made…

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Tacos with Grassfed Beef, Nopalitos, and Avocado

Beef and nopales are delicious together. In this recipe, the beef preparation should be on the drier side, making a nice balance for the mucilaginous and slightly tart nopalitos. For the nopalitos: 1 nopal cactus pad, de-spined and cut into ½-inch cubes Sea salt to taste Juice of ½ lime 2 teaspoons olive oil For…

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Zucchini with Onions

This recipe is from Vedika’s Sanjai Mathur, who describes it as “a light recipe with a sweet effect, perfect for summer.” ½ pound zucchini, peeled and diced1 onion, chopped2 teaspoons ghee (clarified butter)½ teaspoon cumin seeds¼ teaspoon turmeric powderSalt to tasteFresh coriander leaves to garnish In a pan, heat ghee and add cumin seeds, swirl…

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Brown Turkey Fig Jam with Sherry & Fennel

This recipe is adapted from The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook by Rachel Saunders (Andrews McMeel Publishing). The book gives more detailed instructions on testing the jam for doneness as well as on how to sterilize and process the jars. 8–9 eight-ounce canning jars and lids 4 . pounds stemmed brown turkey figs 2 pounds 2…

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Pomegranate-Jalapeño Jelly

This recipe creates a transparent, ruby red substance with a subtly sweet and hot flavor. 4 cups extracted pomegranate juice ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 12 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped 1 package powdered pectin 4 cups sugar Place pomegranate juice, lemon juice, and jalapeños in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat…

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Iced summer berry pudding

Courtesy of Bernice Tzong, pastry chef at Café Rouge. Stop by the café this summer to try her berry ice creams and sorbets. For the glaze:4 tablespoons water2 tablespoons sugar5 tablespoons strawberry jam4 tablespoons crème de cassis (optional)2 cups fresh strawberries, thinly sliced Line a 2½–3 quart pudding mold or a glass bowl with plastic…

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Sautéed Chicken Breast With Lillet Blackberry And Raspberry Sauce

Courtesy of Rick DeBeaord, executive chef at Café Rouge 12 ounces chicken breast½ pint blackberries½ pint raspberries¼ cup white Lillet (a citrus-flavored French aperitif wine)2 tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 450˚. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in an ovenproof pan. Place chicken in pan with skin side down and brown,…

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Mâche salad with blueberries and toasted almonds

Courtesy of Rick DeBeaord, executive chef at Café Rouge ½ pound mâche1 pint blueberries1 cup almonds½ teaspoon Espelette pepper¼ cup chopped parsley1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil½ teaspoon salt Place almonds on baking sheet and toast in 350˚ oven until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Cool and chop roughly. Mix olive oil into…

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Five-Minute Mexican Weed Wrap

An easily portable lunch or fast dinner. The sprouted-grain tortilla’s earthy texture stands up well to the weedy greens, and the avocado adds a smooth contrast. For 1 hearty serving, briefly place 1 sprouted-grain tortilla directly on stove burner on medium heat. Watch closely to avoid burning, and turn to lightly toast each side. Place…

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Weedy Green Lemonade

If you have a juicer, try making this mineral-packed tonic. You can make use of mature or bolting weeds, which have more enzymes and nutrients than young ones have, and the larger stalks will give you plenty of juice. If you pull the roots, you can juice those too. Drink on an empty stomach for…

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Nettle Tea

Tea made of nettles promotes radiant skin and hair, as well as prostate health. I always make extra nettle tea to use as a superfood additive for smoothies or for botanical preparations. You can freeze the extra tea in icecube trays to keep it available for other uses. Heat up a pot of filtered water…

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Custom Weedy Greens Mix

Create your own weedy greens mix from the following suggestions. There are no correct amounts—just play and experiment. Your mix can last up to a week in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Bull mallow (Malva nicaeensis) Chickweed (Stellaria media) Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) Lamb’s quarters (Chenopodium album) Miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata) Nettle…

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Chicken Braised with Pomegranate

  BY PETER CHASTAIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF Serves 4-6 1 Rosie or other organic chicken, back removed then cut eight ways 1 large white onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 5 whole cloves garlic, split in half, germ removed 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 clove 1 1/4 sticks cinnamon 2 bay…

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Pomegranate and Honey as a Dessert

  Use the seeds of 1 large pomegranate per person, drizzled with your favorite honey, as a dessert. Served elegantly on individual glass plates or placed on a cherished platter at the end of dinner, this can be a condiment for a nice Pecorino, or it can stand on its own with herbed teas or…

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